non-starting 2006 KLX250

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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 06:13 AM
  #21  
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^^^ This is a good possibility. Take a close look at all of the fluids(rad, brake, oil)- they are a good indicator of lack of upkeep. Definitely lowball the offer-if it turns out to be something simple then you have an excellent platform to build a great bike from.

On the 'turns over'- that was a pet peeve when trying to glean symptoms from customers on a no start. They had a hard time telling the difference of not cranking and not running...
 
Old Feb 25, 2015 | 05:32 PM
  #22  
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It looks to me that the fuel petcock is in the 'Off' position. While it does sound like the carb needs attention, it'll never start with the petcock off (obviously ). Could be that the 'mechanic' recognized that the owner knew virtually nothing about bikes, flipped the petcock, then showed him that it wouldn't start, therefore justifying the diagnosis.
I'd seriously consider jumping on it for $1500 or less. It'd be a bit of a risk, but if the current owner is being honest about its previously running condition, it shouldn't be a big deal getting it going.
Keep us posted!
 
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 03:24 AM
  #23  
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Well, half a day, a tank of gas, and a severe thunderstorm later, the bike is safely at my house. I followed the advice posted in this thread, checked the bike over--fluids OK, carb is indeed showing signs of sloppy seal work, bike turning over but not starting--and made a low offer. He was happy to have some cash, and me without mine.

It is dark and stormy here, so I will post more when my buddy and I have done a proper assessment In the next day or so. Thanks to the members here for all the help. It is much appreciated.
 
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 03:33 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tezzytime
Well, half a day, a tank of gas, and a severe thunderstorm later, the bike is safely at my house. I followed the advice posted in this thread, checked the bike over--fluids OK, carb is indeed showing signs of sloppy seal work, bike turning over but not starting--and made a low offer. He was happy to have some cash, and me without mine.

It is dark and stormy here, so I will post more when my buddy and I have done a proper assessment In the next day or so. Thanks to the members here for all the help. It is much appreciated.
Awesome, keep us posted.
 
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 02:16 PM
  #25  
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Congratulations on your purchase!
 
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 09:55 PM
  #26  
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SHE LIVES!!! While I was at work, my friend tinkered around with it for 30 minutes, found the air filter to be filthy and falling apart, the brake fluid to be black (wtf), and flushed the carb bowl. Bang, bang--fired right up!

It's a little stubborn with the cold start, wants to cut out. We set the rpm's up a bit and that seems to work. I'm going to order an air filter, new levers, and hit it with the pilot jet mod.

This thing rocks! I had test driven one before on the street, but out on the dirt roads it is tearing it up. Going out to the nat'l forest this weekend, should be a good time. I'll post some more pictures when I get a chance.

All in all, one if my best purchases. Could not be happier. Very thankful for generous friends and this online community. Feels good.

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Old Feb 26, 2015 | 10:10 PM
  #27  
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Congratulations on the repair and getting her fired up. The brake fluid was likely original and being dark is no surprise.

We're curious to know what you paid. Not that you have to tell us, but we are curious.

The "pilot jet" mod for easier starting is actually the "enricher/choke jet" mod. Find a 0.018" drill bit at a hobby store. It removes just the smallest amount of material from the enricher jet. The bit almost fits in the jet before drilling out. One owner went to a 0.18" drill bit. Don't do that! This one is drilled because it is pressed in and cannot be removed and replaced.

Pilot jets are difficult to clean properly. I'd be tempted just to purchase a brand new pilot jet for a few bucks and toss the old one. This may also help it idle better at startup. While the carb is off, remove the EPA cover from the fuel screw so it can be adjusted if needed (many need backed out a little to richen up a bit).

I like short levers like yours, but I put buttons on the ends with marine-grade heat shrink tape. I'll give you some instructions if you're interested.

Think about getting some hand guards if you'll be riding off road because you'll likely fall and guards will protect hands and levers. Stock levers are too long to fit in some guards and shorter levers are needed.

Welcome to the madness!
 

Last edited by IDRIDR; Feb 26, 2015 at 10:15 PM.
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 10:24 PM
  #28  
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I assume you're going to change the oil and filter too?
 
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 10:39 PM
  #29  
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roger that on the drill bit, fuel screw, and handguards. I want factory length levers right now, any sites to recommend buying from for fast shipping? I'll have to search for the proper length handguards to match, as well. Any particular air filter that's a well-kept secret?

As for the oil and filter, I saw the previous owner's receipt for an oil and filter change from a week or so ago. The oil looks fine, but I'll probably change it soon after I break her in a bit more.

Price-wise, factoring in a few external costs, I'm looking at $1500.
 
Old Feb 26, 2015 | 11:22 PM
  #30  
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$1,500 is a great price, even with the headaches. If you're going to be riding in mainly dirt get a Uni foam filter. I ride mainly street and use a K&N.
 



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