The best way to check is the method klx678 suggested. With the bike sitting on the skid plate so the rear wheel is off the ground, disconnect one of the link bolts on the suspension...careful to support the rear wheel so you don't get pinched by the swingarm, etc. I like to use a floor or bottle jack under the tire or against the swingarm to raise and lower the rear wheel.

Move the rear wheel up until the rear axle, swingarm pivot axle, and countershaft sprocket are all in perfect alignment. Use a string or whatever stretched across all three to check alignment. This is why the jack is handy as it will hold an exact position.

With all three elements aligned, adjust the chain where it has a small amount of slack. This is the tightest your chain will get at any point in its arc. Of course, rotate the sprockets to assure you don't have a spot that is too tight on the chain.

Now, reattach your lower suspension link bolt so the rear wheel is resting at it's lowest point where you will regularly check chain adjustment. Check the slack you now have at the points indicated in the manual. This is the minimum amount of slack you will need for future chain slack measurements to adjust from.

Remeber that if you change sprocket sizes on front, rear, or both, you have to find what the new slack amount should be as this usually always changes the amount of slack needed.

 

And that it is better off to run loose than too tight.

 

Great info! Thanks again.