Newbie lubing new chain.

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Old May 25, 2011 | 01:21 PM
  #31  
kojack06's Avatar
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I've never heard of this lube. Can you post a link? Thanks!
Originally Posted by Guido
I use MFR chain lube and really like it. It's thin and watery and dries quick, dirt doesn't stick that much. Supposedly it bonds with the metal to reduce friction (MFR=metal friction reducer). Whatever the hype it seems to work. My KLR chain has 15K miles on it and still going strong.

BTW, I use the tip-it-over-on-the-kickstand-and-knock-it-into-gear method of lubing the chain too.
 
Old May 26, 2011 | 03:06 AM
  #32  
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Here's their website:

ProGold Lubricants | Products: ProLink MFR Chain Lube

I bought a bunch of bottles on ebay a couple years back and I'm getting close to running out. Need to get some more. I like the stuff.

Shop a round for a deal on it.
 
Old May 26, 2011 | 11:19 PM
  #33  
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Hey, Guido.

Here's the link for the Castrol chain lubricant I picked up recently for about $6.00 at Parts Source. By the way, do you have any advice about filter cleaning products? I bought some yesterday that was recommended by Kawasaki mechanics, but it was bloody expensive, almost $16 CAD (Canadian).

Here's the Castrol chain lube link.

Chain Lube Racing : Castrol Moto

Since I'm a newbie, I probably add more lubricant to the chain than is necessary. Still, after applying, the Castrol-brand lube doesn't drip or get flung everywhere during riding, as some have complained about. The chain looks especially awesome after a WD-40 application, a light scrub with a toothbrush, and then a rinse with cold water. I'll probably only clean the chain with WD-40 after real messy, muddy rides.

I also asked mechanics about the break-in period for a new bike and they said not to worry about exceeding the 4,500 limit - as recommended in the 2011 KLX250S owner's manual - too much. They also said that revving to 5,500 RPM is not a big deal either. Anything up to 7,500 RPM after the bike racks up between 800 and 1,600 kilometres is tolerable, they said.

"BUT DON'T MAINTAIN A CONTINUOUS REV/RPM!" both of the mechanics emphasized.

The mechanics also said it's not totally necessary to replace the gasket next to the oil-draining-bolt after an oil change, or to use a torque wrench to tighten the oil-draining-bolt back up. They recommended starting the engine for a minute before draining the oil.

I basically asked them for everything I would need for an oil change and an air cleaner cleaning. Here’s what they took off the shelf.

OIL CHANGE PRODUCTS:
For the oil change they gave me one filter and one litre of Kawasaki mineral M4, 4-cycle, 10W40, oil. It was $8.00. I presume 1-litre is all that's needed if you’re also planning on replacing the oil filter as well.

AIR CLEANER PRODUCTS:
For the air cleaner cleaning, the mechanic recommended two products : PJ1 Foam Filter Cleaner Spray, $15.00, (spray, wait 15 minutes, hose off, then let dry beneath sunshine) and Fab1 spray-on air filter oil, $11.00, (apply inside and outside filter, allow ample time, to saturate, probably overnight, I guess).

Hope this helps. Will post updates in this thread after changing oil for the first time, probably in the next couple weeks, but will likely be back for more advice before then.

By the way, does anybody grease, or oil, any hinges on their KLX250S every so often, or tighten any specific bolts before they go riding? I want to do serious daily check-ups.
 

Last edited by brittlebrain; May 26, 2011 at 11:29 PM. Reason: spelling error.
Old May 26, 2011 | 11:32 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by brittlebrain
I presume 1-litre is all that's needed if you’re also planning on replacing the oil filter as well.

By the way, does anybody grease, or oil, any hinges on their KLX250S every so often, or tighten any specific bolts before they go riding? I want to do serious daily check-ups.
1-litre may be a little short. Check your manual. I think mine takes a little over a quart, but not quite a full 1.5 qt. It was less than the manual said. Don't overfill. Watch the site glass with the bike level front/back left/right when filling, and check the glass again after running the bike a little after the oil change.

I grease the bearings once per year as a winter maintenance item. Wheel bearings are sealed and you won't be able to do much with them. But do grease the swingarm, linkage, and head/steering bearings. This requires tear down, which isn't hard, but time consuming and only something I'll do once per year. If you ride lots of deep water, maybe do the lower ones more often.

Lube your cables. I picked up a device that let's me clean them by squirting brake cleaner through, then lube with cable lube.
 

Last edited by IDRIDR; May 26, 2011 at 11:34 PM.
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