Nervous because you can't remember if YOU used Loc Tite?

No worries on my end... I've got a bunch of hours on it since I did the MCM, if they were going to loosen up, they've of done it by now. I also wanted to check the compression release. I originally ran it bare with no spring or wire. I didn't like the sound of if flopping around without a wire (when starting or stopping the motor), so I went back in a couple weeks later and added it (a length of coat hanger if I remember correctly). Everything looks good, so I buttoned her up and am ready to ride... just not in 25 degree weather

Funny Note: While I was installing the Edge 2 kit, I also thought about a future 351 upgrade.... funny part was that the first thing I thought about was the manual cam chain tensioner. I was thinking that I've got the tensioner adjusted to perfection, and if I do the 351, I'll have to monkey around with it again and it'll take me three tries to get it perfect again. 1st World Problems!

 

I had the MCM done since nearly day one. No problems, no noises. I guess maybe I'm good. 8^D

Heck I cold set my tensioner one time. Luck? maybe.

 

I would imagine it was more related to 'experience'...lol


Or a better way to put it: actually knowing what you are trying to accomplish vs. understanding the concept of what you are trying to accomplish, but having never seen or heard it's accomplishment in person *grin

 

Yeah, when I do the fine adjustment on my 650 (pipe on the other side), I actually turn it in until ticking stops, then slowly back out until ticking starts, then slowly back in until ticking just goes away. If I'm not comfortable with the setting I do it again. I'm not quite as picky on the 250, that pipe can burn!

 

What cu talkin bout Willis

 

Very well put, I feel the same so often!

 

A good idea of what you are trying to do is 90% of the challenge. I learned that when I first dealt with a cam drive in 2000. I needed something different for the 650 after two junk OEM units. The mechanics provided the idea and I had to take it from there. Then for adjusting it, I asked how they did it and was told. From there I knew the basic idea - take out just the slack - and did it. It just plain made sense. I'd never done it nor seen it done, I just did it.

Of course that knowledge is passed on in the instructions and also when people ask. It isn't about "making my bike quiet". That noise is only a symptom. The task is to take out the slack - not add tension, but just take out slack - so the timing is accurate and the slap of the chain won't damage parts or cause the chain to jump time. A quiet cam drive is a side benefit. That is the reason to get a functional cam chain tensioner.

Carburetion is the same thing. The stumble or bog is a symptom of bad fuel/air mix. Jetting has to be performed to get the fuel mix within an acceptable range. The results are better performance that eliminates the bog or stumble.

 

Hi RaceGass,

I have only modded the intake side as some discussions suggest this was enough. Made the changes exactly per photos and drawings. I did not want to mess with the ACR but I do have a set of after market cams which does not have the ACR.

In any case, I would concur with your conclusion. No noticeable power increase except added noise from intake. Not sure if it is because mine is an EFI and requires remapping. I do have a tuneable after market ECU if needs be. Runs out of puff too early. The bike is rarely below 6,000 rpm for my back road scratching, so the low end improvement, if any, was not worth the trouble.

Tried to search for dyno graphs to show the before and after to understand the differences but have not been successful.

 

@Rene Tan , the newest post on this thread is two years old..

Definitive dyno chart - proving the power boost gained by the MCM (when properly done - both cams.. ) - has been posted and available to all members. Look at my threads to find it..

Your biggest problem is with the factory detune running on your ECM - killing power above 7500 rpm. Only known way to remove the detune (and produce the power levels of the carb'd KLX's) is with the API ECU..

 

Thank you. Fortunately I do have an API ECU. The graph does not appear in the thread but searched separately under images on net. Extra power below 6,000 rpm not useful in my application. Higher rev of stock setting + lidless better suited.