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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 12:22 AM
  #11  
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drill out the a/f cap..turn out the a/f screw 1/4 turn to slightly richen...

ahnh666: can you give me some details on how to do this?
 
Old Oct 13, 2012 | 12:45 AM
  #12  
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when you take your carb out, you notice one screw hole covered by plastic...used a small drill bit to drill a small hole in the plastic only...just enough to srew in a standard screw enough to pull the plastic hole cover off...you now will see the a/f screw....turn the screw out 1/4 turn...install the carb back...once you do this, you can lean or richen with just a flat screwdriver bit in the future...

if you are going to take the carb out, might as well spend the $50 on a dj jet kit and put a bigger jet and rejet completely...
 

Last edited by ahnh666; Oct 13, 2012 at 12:48 AM.
Old Oct 13, 2012 | 02:59 AM
  #13  
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i don't know why everything is more expensive for motorcycles...i get great deals on regular and semi-synthetic yamalube, but will be switching to the walmart sold full synthetic rotella 15w-40 when my jugs of yamalube runs out...

Originally Posted by BigSky KLX
Yep, a little tap while cold is completely normal. Mine does it too.

Running some Rotella 15w-40 will quiet it down a little bit, but running kawi 10w-40 it is a bit noisy.

Is it cutting out at high rpm's or under a big load? That is a sign that you are lean.
 
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 03:27 AM
  #14  
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I was wondering since my lean issue seems to be mainly at highspeed, highthrottle situations can i just change out the main jet to one thats a little bigger the stock one is what a 118? what would you guys recommend? I was thinking a 122 in addition to turning out the a/f screw 1/4 turn.
I ride around hollywood and occasionally hit the hollywood hills so my elevation varies between about 300 and 1500 ft
(or maybe more than a 122 if i decided to do air intake mods)
Also about the main jet part numbers The Oem Kawasaki Part # for the 122 main jet seems to be 92063-1073. But the Keihin part number is 99101-393-#122. Do these cross reference to the same part?
One more thing i read somewhere in the forums that you dont have to remove the tank and seat to change out the main jet, just unbolt the cable holder loosen the boots and twist the carb to the right.
 

Last edited by Warren3000; Oct 17, 2012 at 04:39 AM.
Old Oct 17, 2012 | 04:28 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Warren3000
I was wondering since my lean issue seems to be mainly at highspeed, highthrottle situations can i just change out the main jet to one thats a little bigger the stock one is what a 118? what would you guys recommend?
What's your elevation? That may help a little. Some around here also bump up the pilot jet, and if you're at a very low elevation that may be something to consider. However, a lot of us with big bore kits and open airbox & exhaust still find the stock #35 pilot works just right.

I think you're correct in pointing at the main jet though.

You could order up two or three main Keihin jets of the next sizes up and it's kind of trial and error. You could also consider getting an adjustable Keihin N1TC needle while you're in there.

I installed a DynoJet kit that comes with a handful of main jets, an adjustable needle which really improves mid-range response and performance, instructions and bit for drilling the existing slider hole a little larger, and bit and screw for removing the cover over the pilot/idle mix screw. The kits have stage 1 and stage 2 instructions.
 
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 03:47 AM
  #16  
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Well i went for a ride on the highway today and i ran at wot for about a full minute got up to 80 on a slight downhill, got home pulled the plug and the top of the electrode was just straight up white (more white than the pics in my first post). I will go with a 125 main and if thats too rich i will just do the kdx snorkel (all i have is a yoshi rs-2 slip on).
 
Old Oct 24, 2012 | 02:46 AM
  #17  
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Update: i took the carb out removed the a/f cap (pita) turned the screw out 1/3rd of a turn and replaced the stock 180 main with the 250. Went for a short ride and so far the low-mid rpm throttle response is def better top end is a tad better (i havent hit the highway yet). My main concern of the motor getting hot from running lean is pretty much gone. I want to open up the intake a little bit i was thinking about drilling a 1 inch round diameter hole right below where the stock snorkel sits on the the outside of the airbox cover (hole will be made from the inside of course). That way the stock snorkel will cover the unsightly hole and i will get better airflow any thoughts on this idea?
 

Last edited by Warren3000; Oct 24, 2012 at 02:50 AM.
Old Oct 24, 2012 | 02:32 PM
  #18  
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Before drilling the airbox, you could try removing the snorkel completely, or taking the air box lid off. If you drill, make it a size that you can easily plug later if you need.
 
Old Oct 24, 2012 | 03:46 PM
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  1. as idrdr mentioned, just remove the snorkel completely, but this will increase noise and vibration from the saddle....
  2. if you want to keep your crotch vibration and noise free, a larger kdx snorkel is a direct replacement...
  3. another option is keeping the airbox stock with the stock snorkel and just getting a higher airflow k&n or uni filter inside...
 
Old Oct 24, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #20  
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also remember, when you do modifications to your airbox, you might want to make some additional adjustments to the a/f...
 



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