Mods
#1
01-17-2006, 07:12 PM
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 21,060
Mods
It's great to see how excited all of the guys here are about changing up their bikes. As this is my first new bike ever, and the first dual purpose bike since my Hodaka days in 1979, I have decided that the only other mod I am going to do is the sprocket change, either front of back, still waiting to decide on that. A lot of you are messing with the jetting, exhaust and air box, and thats good if it works, but for me I am a little cautious about changing stuff that I no nothing about, And I usually like to keep things as original as possible. However it is really interesting to read of all the mods you guys are doing, and I thank Todd for the Pelican idea and instructions. The front fender extensions have worked really great for me, and have kept the water/mud off the front fender and light as well as the motor. So keep up the great work, and the sharing of ideas, because that's what it's all about. It's like we all live in the same neighboorhood, even though seperated by hundreds or thousands of miles. Way to go!!
deej
deej
#2
01-17-2006, 07:37 PM
RE: Mods
I just have tinkering in my blood. Every bike I've owned, I've modified extensively for some reason or another. I just enjoy working on them and trying to make them better (I'm not always successful at that [8D] )
This little bike doesn't need much. I just wanted to unchain the HP that's hidden in there, make it a bit safer on the road with improved lighting, and add a few creature comforts to make it a better commuting weapon. All with an eye toward preserving it's offroad prowess.
Go ahead and do the sprocket change, it's very easy. Here's some tips if you do the front sprocket:
1) Remove the sprocket cover and upper chain guard. Don't lose the little chain deflector inside the sprocket cover.
2) With the bike on the ground, put a cloth on top of the swing arm just in front of the rear axle and insert a 1x2 piece of strong wood or a screw driver handle into the rear sprocket so it pinches down on top of the swingarm as the wheel rotates forward. This will allow the chain to hold the front sprocket while you loosen the nut. Another alternative is to have someone sit on the bike and apply the rear brake while you remove the nut.
3) Use a punch or screw driver with a hammer to flatten out the retaining washer behind the sprocket nut. Only one side of this washer should be pressing on the nut from the factory. There's no need to pound on the rest of the washer, you want it raised just slightly off the sprocket for later but you don't want any part of it to interfere with removing the nut.
4) Get a big a$$ breaker bar or long socket driver to remove the nut. BTW, it requires big meteric socket (33 mm?) It's the same as the rear axle nut so maybe your tool kit has one if you don't.
5) Remove the rear axle to allow the wheel to roll forward enough to remove the chain. Use the slack to allow you to remove the front sprocket. You may have to slide it and the chain out toward you as a unit and then roll the sprocket backwards to remove it. There's not much room between the chain and the engine casing.
6) Install the new sprocket and reverse the above steps. I suggest at least 120 ft lb on the sprocket nut but I don't know the factory recommendation. The retaining washer (once you mash down one side of it again with your hammer and punch) will hold it on if that's not enough torque.
7) Remember to adjust your chain tention. Dropping down to the 13t will require you to take up more slack then before. Have your helper sit on the bike to check the tention with the suspension compressed.
This little bike doesn't need much. I just wanted to unchain the HP that's hidden in there, make it a bit safer on the road with improved lighting, and add a few creature comforts to make it a better commuting weapon. All with an eye toward preserving it's offroad prowess.
Go ahead and do the sprocket change, it's very easy. Here's some tips if you do the front sprocket:
1) Remove the sprocket cover and upper chain guard. Don't lose the little chain deflector inside the sprocket cover.
2) With the bike on the ground, put a cloth on top of the swing arm just in front of the rear axle and insert a 1x2 piece of strong wood or a screw driver handle into the rear sprocket so it pinches down on top of the swingarm as the wheel rotates forward. This will allow the chain to hold the front sprocket while you loosen the nut. Another alternative is to have someone sit on the bike and apply the rear brake while you remove the nut.
3) Use a punch or screw driver with a hammer to flatten out the retaining washer behind the sprocket nut. Only one side of this washer should be pressing on the nut from the factory. There's no need to pound on the rest of the washer, you want it raised just slightly off the sprocket for later but you don't want any part of it to interfere with removing the nut.
4) Get a big a$$ breaker bar or long socket driver to remove the nut. BTW, it requires big meteric socket (33 mm?) It's the same as the rear axle nut so maybe your tool kit has one if you don't.
5) Remove the rear axle to allow the wheel to roll forward enough to remove the chain. Use the slack to allow you to remove the front sprocket. You may have to slide it and the chain out toward you as a unit and then roll the sprocket backwards to remove it. There's not much room between the chain and the engine casing.
6) Install the new sprocket and reverse the above steps. I suggest at least 120 ft lb on the sprocket nut but I don't know the factory recommendation. The retaining washer (once you mash down one side of it again with your hammer and punch) will hold it on if that's not enough torque.
7) Remember to adjust your chain tention. Dropping down to the 13t will require you to take up more slack then before. Have your helper sit on the bike to check the tention with the suspension compressed.
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