It sure did.
I modified it to hit 50+ mph... which on a scooter feels like 100!

 

Exactly. It doesn't make sense that a smaller foot would have an easier time with a larger diameter shift peg, because then the entire range of ankle motion is increased. Yes with that larger diameter you aren't stamping your ankle down as far as you would have before in order to downshift, but you also have to heave your foot up higher to begin with now too.

This would be alleviated by at least trying different spline positions before the PVC pipe additional, to where you may find a more comfortable starting shift lever position while also being able to keep the total range of ankle motion to a minimum.

To me, adding a piece of pipe like that before you ever even try to adjust the lever angle would be like buying a car and refusing to slide the seat forward or back. But then you realize that you need to be closer to the pedals, so you leave the seat in position still and throw a giant pillow against the backrest to prop you forward. Well, you could have just slid the seat forward instead like it's made for.

 

When upshifting, the final position of my foot is lower. For me this feels great and eliminates 1-2 missed shifts. Moving the lever one spline puts the lever too low on my lowered bike, so effectively a half a spline with the pvc coupling works just fine.

By the way, I installed the Lithium ion battery. My old battery weighed 5 pounds and this one only weighs 1 pound. This puts the curb weight down to just 288 pounds, even with a larger 2.7 gallon tank full of fuel and a 3 pound steel rear rack.

The total curb weight of bike+rider+gear is now under 440 pounds.

 

I am also running Mobil 1, think I'll drain it and put a regular petroleum oil in, lowered the shifter and it seems to work better, fewer missed shifts and the jumping out of 6th only seems to occur if I don't make sure to fully lift the shifter. But I've never experienced this with my Yamahas, many 2strks,

 

And here I am looking to get rid of my KLX to intentionally get a heavier bike, haha

 

Back in the early 80's I was mounted on Yamaha IT175s, and IT200s, their dry weight was less than 220#. I understand that this is a 4 stroke, valves , e start, battery, turn signals, mirrors , fuel pump and all that environmental plumbing,etc, but another 80#s????????? The only reason I would consider a Lion battery is that is might have more CCAs the smaller size is an issue because then you have to add styrofoam or something to the current battery box, weight doesn't enter into it, unless this were a race application and for me, that no longer applies.

 

While weight is something almost everyone ignores, it can have a considerable effect on performance. The smaller the bike, the more of a factor it becomes. Most bikes compensate with more horsepower to make the Pounds per Horsepower ratio more favorable.

With 440 pounds total (bike+rider+gear) weight, and 25 horsepower, the ratio is 17.6 pounds per horsepower.
For a reasonably lightweight modestly powered transportation bike, the performance is quite lively.

 

They come with foam with double-sided tape to fill the gaps in the battery box.

 

Eh, I used to believe in power to weight like that, but not really anymore. Yes, subtracting weight is always going to be quicker than it was before, but when you look at power to weight. The KLX has the same power to weight ratio as common turbo sport-compacts. The thing is, the KLX is still way slower than them, because ~25 HP is still ~25 HP.

I'm glad for you that your bike is what you're looking for in terms of performance, but I'll say that your definition of "lively" is pretty generous. 100 HP naked bikes are my own personal "lively". It's all perspective of course, but that's why I asked before if you had ever ridden anything bigger than 400cc. Go take even a middle-weight naked or sportbike out for a spin and then hop right back onto your KLX. You'll think something must be broken.

 

Since you own a 100 horsepower naked bike, why are you riding a klx300?