I have 1750 on mine, haven't been getting any miles on it latley because of the vtx, but considering the last ride, thats all about to change. Wow if this bike only had a little more power then it would be "my" perfect bike. I rode a cr 250 honda 2 stroke, and DAMN, that has got some power. No problem with a wheelie on that thing, its a problem trying to keep that front wheel down. I just dont like how snappy the power is, its not smooth. If the KLX had some power like that and it delivered it smoothly as it does now, then I would be COMPLETLEY satisfied, also the cost would have to stay the same.

 

Hey Incabiker - you might want to consider a 300cc upgrade kit. That's what I'm doing. Basically I want to be able to wheelie on demand - not to stunt or show off, I'm old enough (= wise enough) to know that only pain lies down that path. Rather, I want to be able to lift the front end over logs and creek crossings and such when off-road without pulling my arms out of socket. From everything I've gathered, the 300cc upgrade is just the ticket for this. Power delivery will still be smooth - it is not a race bike afterall. But the extra displacement is purported to add quite a bit of torque.

Another plus is that it really compliments a lot of the other mods we've done such as carb jetting and aftermarket exhaust. Those mods were designed around the 300cc engine. Most of the reports that I've seen regarding the larger exhaust is that the aftermarket pipe helps the KLX300 a lot more than it helps the KLX250.

I've got my parts on order. I just flushed my Mobil1 synthetic oil from my KLX and replaced with standard Havoline 10W40 in preperation for a new break-in cycle. I'll probably do at least one more oil replacement as I want to make sure all of the synthetic is out since it will hamper break-in.

 

Wow,
How much did all this cost, and how much is the labor gonna cost to install it?? I will let you be the guinee pig to see how much better it performs

 

Parts are $470 from Ron Ayers, not including shipping or tax so it is not "cheap" - a little more than the cost of an aftermarket exhaust. Sure, I'll be the guinea pig, I don't mind. But I'm not, really - several others have done it. For example, see here:

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/m_32735/tm.htm

Regarding installation - I'm doing mine myself. I've already done my valves and that was a piece of cake. Just a few more bolts off and I'd be where I need to be to do the cylinder. I don't know what a shop would charge for this.

 

About 1350Kms

At current rate should get abaout 2000kms out of the rear tyre






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Do not follow that idiotic sticker on the tach as you will be lugging the engine in many cases by shifting at 4000 rpms. I don't have experience personally with the motoman method so I can't comment.

I have these rules which I always follow and have broken in many engines and have always produced excellent results(powerful, smooth, reliable, and not burning a drop of oil)

1. Vary the RPMs
2. No long idling
3. No warmups ever! Better to just take off easily
4. Never let the engine overheat or even get too hot
5. Never lug the engine
6. Occasional full throttle from reasonable speeds(never from a dead stop)
7. Never zing a cold engine, let it warm up to thermostat temperature befor wringing it's neck off.

Actually once it's broken in, I still practice 2-7. I took it to 8000rpm gradually many times during the initial 600 miles, changed the oil and I now have a bike at 1400 miles that starts instantaneously in the morning, runs smoother than any 250 thumper has the right to, get 70 mpg and will cruise smoothly with no stress at 75-80 indicated with plenty of reserve power left.