Metallic rattle from 09 KLX250

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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 12:29 AM
  #21  
klx678's Avatar
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Originally Posted by darkmarc
I'll probably get burned for posting this but here goes.
First remove large bolt in center and remove spring.
If you remove the two bolts that hold the cam chain tensioner to the head, you can carefully remove it listening intently that you don't hear a click, carefully press in the ratchet dog and extend the tensioner one more tooth, reinstall and listen to chain. If you still have noise,repeat one tooth at a time. If you do hear a click when removing, or are not sure you only got 1 tooth, reset the plunger all the way in and let it readjust itself. It's not rocket science, but if you extend the tensioner too far you will put too much strain on the chain and cam bearings, possibly ruining your head.
You can do it, I have confidence in you.
marc

Yep, you're right, you are burnt! That is definitely a way to overtighten the cam drive. There is only a few thou of clearance on the cam. Each tooth is probably about at least a .5mm pitch. That's about .019" movement. That's a lot. If the pitch is more like 1mm the movement is double. That is roughly about 1/4 to 1/2 turn in tighter on a manual tensioner. Definitely a no-no. I tell people to turn a manual unit in finger tight, then back it out about 1/8-1/4 turn! That is actually loosening it a bit to make sure it has proper adjustment when fully warm. It is better to run a few thou loose than too tight. Proper mechanical application of a chain drive requires it not be tight, just as little slack as possible.

But hey - it's up to each to make their choice. At least now a decision can be made on sound engineering knowledge.
 
Old Sep 27, 2013 | 05:55 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by klx678
Yep, you're right, you are burnt! That is definitely a way to overtighten the cam drive. There is only a few thou of clearance on the cam. Each tooth is probably about at least a .5mm pitch. That's about .019" movement. That's a lot. If the pitch is more like 1mm the movement is double. That is roughly about 1/4 to 1/2 turn in tighter on a manual tensioner. Definitely a no-no. I tell people to turn a manual unit in finger tight, then back it out about 1/8-1/4 turn! That is actually loosening it a bit to make sure it has proper adjustment when fully warm. It is better to run a few thou loose than too tight. Proper mechanical application of a chain drive requires it not be tight, just as little slack as possible.

But hey - it's up to each to make their choice. At least now a decision can be made on sound engineering knowledge.
Thanks for following along and supporting our bikes. Many of us appreciate your commitment, your understanding of the mechanics, and what is needed to make a fine running machine. cheers!
 
Old Sep 27, 2013 | 06:12 AM
  #23  
Nikolaj Lykke's Avatar
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^^^ +1 to the above.

This bike wouldn´t be nowhere near as cool as it is if it wasnt for all of you people developing parts for it to improve it.
 
Old Sep 27, 2013 | 10:34 AM
  #24  
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Where would I be able to get one of those manual cam chain tensioners? My bike used to make the noise that this one does. I just recently went over 10k miles and the noise isn't as noticeable anymore but I definitely want to consider installing a manual tensioner haha.
 
Old Sep 27, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #25  
Nikolaj Lykke's Avatar
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Forum member klx678 aka Mark Krieger makes them.

http://www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com/

Shoot him an e-mail. He is very helpful
 
Old Sep 28, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
Thanks for following along and supporting our bikes. Many of us appreciate your commitment, your understanding of the mechanics, and what is needed to make a fine running machine. cheers!
I have to give credit to TNC, he was one of two riders who contacted me about the issue and the only one that followed up. He helped with the information needed to make the part. We did good! The original is still working for him with only one change - with fat exhausts, I had to go to a Yamaha exhaust allen nut for clearances... a $5 nut! But it works. (And yes, I've tried everywhere to find the nut at lower cost, including all the major industrial suppliers to no avail.)

I am happy to help any rider keep their bike in good working order. That was what it was all about - and still is.
 
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