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Sounds like you need written instructions to give you the confidence to complete the task. Goto Dynojet website and look up the instructions ahead of time to confirm your mechanical abilities. Most here are capable of doing the Dynojet kit with the instructions provided and the technical assistance phone line for questions. Valve lash adjustment is a lot trickier and involves strong math capabilities
for correct clearance adjustment since the klx requires specific thickness valve lash spacers and cam removal for installation. Your explanations provide insight as to your wrenching experience.
There's a reason the kouba adjustment screw was mentioned as ease of adjustment on the fly helps dial in the desired performance quicker. After installing kit 2206 and readjusting the fuel mixture screw 4+ turns out w the stock pilot jet, decel popping was still present. going to a 38 pilot still had the same symptoms w the kouba screw 3.75 turns out so a 40 was installed and the mixture screw 2 turns out. Kouba instructions recommend not running their screw turned out more than 3 turns as it may work loose and fall out.
Your area/elevation/atmospheric conditions will dictate your specific requirements, but just wanted to give you an idea of what it might take... In my case I pulled the carb 4 times total before dialing it in, then eventually going to a keihin fcr35 pumper carb as throttle response is right there.
Last edited by RaceGass; Dec 21, 2017 at 06:35 AM.
heres some pics of the cam sprocket..
idk it looked fine before...but I adjusted them anyways I tried to make the lines line up with the cylinder as flush as possible
took pics idk why... since they look exactly the same
If you notice my air suction valve (where the evaporation canister plugs into the cylinder head) ...I installed a hose with a little nozzle on the tip .. with maybe a 1/2 mm tip .. and I'm thinking this might be why I'm getting extra popping . because its sucking a little air into the head.
Also I took a picture of the valve stem? (I think) through the cylinder header exhaust port ... and it looks really white .. is it suppose to be like that? I know metal gets all white like that when it over heats and I would assume it gets really hot there.
both exhaust clearances: 0.15-0.20
intake clearances: 0.13-0.18 and 0.15-0.18
took it for a ride, runs strong
still pops but not as much
...I warmed it up around the block then let it sit on idle for 5 min ..didnt die or anything sounded fine...smelled fine...
Last edited by horror_fan; Dec 22, 2017 at 01:27 AM.
Sounds like you need written instructions to give you the confidence to complete the task.
when it comes to cars, motorcycles, vehicles etc.. I just like knowing all the steps before doing it also I like to hearother people's experiences with projects.. their failures and successes ..notes etc.
I've been doing diy mechanical stuff for a while and when I first started off I would never follow any instructions and would usually run into annoying issues.
I apologize for not being here sooner - seems I am still needed here for helping.. Kinda a shame..
Horror_fan, If you will read my dyno tuning threads, you will see that I have worked out the proper max performance tuning for several mod combos on the dyno..
See the threads below, in my signature line..
great that is very helpful ..
ill take a look at it this week.
