Thats why you need to re-jet it :-)

 

Flat spots 1/4-3/4 throttle means you need to either go richer on the needle jet valve, or try the 4th clip...maybe both. If you get through that throttle position and things are cool 3/4-full, then your main is fine.

I'm not familiar with the kits or the stock carb on the klx....but when it comes to this stuff it really doesn't matter what carb you're talking about. A jet needle is a jet needle and a needle jet is a needle jet and tuning them gives the same results.

good site for jets: http://www.psep.biz/ click on ATV, then click on fuel/intake acc. and see if your carb is listed in there...I run the mikuni tm33 from Bill, so it works for me, maybe not for the stock klx carb though, I dunno.

From the sound of it, and again I don't know the dyno jet kit, you need to be richer in the mid range, that flat spot is from lack of fuel. If you can get through it by "babying" the throttle a little at a time until you get enough throttle opening/fuel to get the main to kick in, then you're lean. If you get some popping on hard decel, you're lean.

Just a thought from my own headaches...

This one's good too, read the first paragraph: http://www.4strokes.com/tech/4S_Jetting_Tricks.pdf

This is a good one as well: http://www.4strokes.com/tech/howtojet.asp This one talks about changing out the needle jet valve to go richer.

I hit flat spots 1/4-3/4 now, and I just ordered a needle jet valve to go richer, I will mess with the jet needle afterward. The bleeder type will get you higher performance, but if you want good gas milage, stick with the other...name escapes me right now.

Good luck, and enjoy the ride, take notes.

 

Thanks alot :-) i'll check those two url's when i'm on my computer :-) That was some great advice :-)

 

Hey guys, I did the job today.. I first lowered the needle clip to the 4th Position from Top (earlier was 3rd position).. I tried it, no good acutally worse... Pops alot too.. Then I took off the carb top again, and lifted the clip to the 2nd position.. I tried it.. Ok done! No popping what so ever.. But my prob was slightly there still... I also figured out, the original sprocket was 14t so the new one I have is 13t, so I need to keep the bike in higher RPM's? As in I cant go very slow on bigger gears.. Am I right? Or should I turn out the Mixture Screw from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 ? Oh and by the way, i did a mistake when drilling the slide vent hole! I drilled it with the bigger drill bit that is included in the dynojet jet kit! Could this be an issue too? What does drilling the slide vent hole do?

Thanks,
Jamie.

 

Under the Pilot jet heading, is a description on setting the fuel/air screw.
As for the hole in the slide, it may be OK, but you may get some issues with the engine running on despite having closed the throttle, at least until the slide returns to the closed position. Not a problem if you want to go really fast all time!. Just a tip, know where the clutch is. LOL
If is does become a problem, just fill the hole with some Epoxy metal and re-drill it with a 7/64" drill bit or the metric equivalent. in the end it's only a vent, but the physics involved in the engineering do set limits on what can be done to enhance the performance of CV carb'.

 

I have no other problems other than the mid range problem.. Lol clutch eh? Whats that? Lol.. Do you think the mid range problem i have is the new smaller front sprocket? As in i need to shift down alot when hybou to go slower.. I just woke up, and lol I was worrying about my mid range problems in my dreams too (seriously!)..LOL..

Thanks dude!

 

The gearing you have will not cause a problem in the midrange. You just need to tweek it out with the carb' settings. An 8th of a turn on the fuelscrew can make a big difference.

 

Any tip to adjust the fuel screw while the carb is on and the de-ice circuit is on there too? I might order the kouba Fuel Screw but I need to see if the fuel screw setting is the problem.. Oh and I have the Stock #35 Pilot Jet, could this be a problem as I opened the air box? Do I need a #40?

 

One option.
Kawasaki part #57001-1239.
Pilot screw adjuster.
Cost?
Option 2.
Just fit the Kouba fuel screw and start from there.
BTW the #35 pilot is standard on all KLX250 and KLX 300 models. Stick with it.

 

Ok cool, I'll let you know if I order one of the two Thanks alot for the help again dude.. And really sorry for the worries I gave you :S