I did the basic mods this weekend consisting of drilling the exhaust with 1/2", needle on 2nd clip with coller, 125 main, new snorkle and remove and plug emissions (three plugs right?) 2.5 turns on the screw and air box drill. My mistake was drilling an 1/8" hole in the slide.

Now for the results, bike started right up and has some low end power up but has less upper end torque than stock. Basically it fizzles out at 8K or so, bike is much slower. Do I need to order and drill a new slide and chalk it up to experience or could it be something else.

 

Hey Mullet,

That sucks, sounds like you'll need a new slide. P/N 16126-1339, Kawasaki calls it a vaccum valve $96 from cylce-parts.com.

 

Holy crap $96 [:@]

 

The recommended size is 7/64ths. 1/8th is only 1/64ths larger - will that make that much of a difference? Also, the slide drill is intended to produce faster throttle response. The effect of drilling too large I think would be that your throttle doesn't come back down to idle as quickly after letting off, but should not affect normal running. Therefore, I think your problem lies somewhere else.

Try running with the airbox completely off and see if that has a positive affect. I'm not suggesting you do this permanently, but basically as a debugging operation. If it works better, it could indicate you are not getting enough air in and your mixture is rich. In that case, you might want to tighten in the air mixture screw 1/2 turn and try again.

I'd at least try that before forking out the money for the new part.

 

I will say...running rich. As for the slide, if it makes you feel better it can be epoxied and a new hole drilled.

 

Ok now we're talkin, I'm very familiar with epoxy so thats a can do..... I'll also try an open air box and lean her down a bit. You can't put the needle in wrong can you.... I did it just like the pics on this forum and ADVrider.

PS Is there an easy way to adjust the air mixture screw while the carb is on the bike...... outboards are much easier to work on.

 

I think you can loosen the boots then rotate the carb to one side and access it that way.

 

Or depending on your patience and finger size, if you have a flat head bit to be used in a socket set or drill you can use that and finger adjust it but the starter is a bit in the way. I loosened the boots and took off the throttle cables and got to it with a regular screw driver as well to adjust it once but since then I just use the driver bit. I went 2.5 turns out at first and it would idle too high at first and then when warm it idled too low so I went in a quarter turn and it helped then I went in another quarter later and it still idles a bit low but runs great. You could also clean up around the starter and remove that, its just a couple bolts and it will save some frustration and sweating/swearing in the process. Or if you were really trying to fine tune it I've seen pilot screw adjusting tools online for around $15. Its a screwdriver handle with a right angle drive on it to a flat head bit. It looks like the handle is twisted and it spins the bit through a solid tube with a flex shaft inside if I had to guess.

 

This forum kicks ****! I just yanked the carb, came apart a lot faster this time , and adjusted the screw to two turns out. All I can say is WOW! Front end lifted in the parking lot in second.

I'm going to hit my sand pit and get a feel for her.

Is there a proceedure to fine tune the air/fuel screw? I'm definately getting a little fancy screwdriver.