I am wondering what it takes to get these things to lift the front wheel.

I did the stock carb with a Dynojet kit and its much better.

What I want to know is how far I have to go to get it to lift the front wheel with just the throttle or if it even will.

I DO NOT LIKE LOUD, so stock pipe is staying. If I go with the 351 kit will that do it? I would rather spend $500 on a piston and cylinder kit than an exhaust that will not help near as much.

Lets not speculate, I want to hear actual experience.

This is a 250SF.

Some of you folks throw everything at it to get all the power you can. I won't do that. Its not worth spending 1/2 what the bike cost to get 5 hp.

And no I do not believe a header pipe alone will add 3 hp.

I have not seen where any one has jacked up the timing a little and run 93 octane. I do that with most of my bikes.

David

 

It's all in the technique. My buddy with a bone stock 09 can ride wheelies in first and second till the sun comes up.

Lean back (makes all the difference), goose it, and pull back.

 

I have a modified stock pipe that is very quiet, and it added a lot to the power. Almost all 250s are lacking in the low end grunt area, so gear choice and timing are critical.

I pop the front end on all logs, angled roots, and a great many whoops. I rode with a guy on a KLX450 and I can pop it up in places he cannot. His problem is timing. He is so used to just whacking the throttle that he has not mastered it yet when traction is limited.

Often in challenging situations I have found that having the front tire leave the ground is overrated. If you make the motions properly the front end is so light it will travel over the problem in the trail easily anyway. I've also found the CV carb isn't much of an issue like many claim. Sure it is slower to respond, but only by 0.3 seconds. If you learn the timing to can still pull it up, the process just gets started a third of a second earlier in the trail.

 

To answer your question specifically,,, The 351 kit with proper jetting and mods will lift the front wheel easily in 1st and 2nd with the stock exhaust. (been there and done that) I have added a 15 tooth counter sprocket and i can still lift the front wheel easily in 1 and 2.
If you like quiet but want better flow than the stock system go with the FMF quiet core slip on.
I like it just fine in the woods as well as the road.

 

Hey David, you can loft the front tire with your stock bike. I'm sure it would be much easier on an orange 450, but my bike only has an fmf q4 w/jetting and I can get the front tire in the air in first and second gear. Just keep riding and putting yourself in situations that you need to lift the tire and it'll come to you.

 

I really think that going from the 14-42 to the 13-45 did as much if not more than the full Muzzy and Jetting. That and as was mentioned its all timing, seat position, pull, and rpm's. Remember folks, 7-8 grand is the sweet spot.

 

This answered my question. Thank you

Is the FMF quiet core as quiet as the stock muffler? I detest those guys that run around making a bunch of noise. I do not want to be one of them. I drive a little crazy, so more attention is not what I want. I don't even like the extra noise of snorkel out,so I ordered a KDX snorkel. It should be in today.

and YES 7 to 8 is the sweet spot. What I like is I could run it there all day and not hurt a thing.

My question was more concerned with power, not doing actual wheelies. I remember my last one. I was on a hodaka road toad. I remember sliding down the pavement on my butt still hanging on to the handle bars.

David

 

CV carbs and front heavy bike are not conductive the pulling the front up, even on bigger cc bikes.

 

Very good point. I'm thinking 351, but not sure yet.

David

 

Wait till the weather is colder. This way the air is denser and you get maybe an extra 5% of HP.