Yup, hes in Japan, northern Japan. He has a black D-Tracker and has posted some pics of his bike and of a ride he went on over on the ADVrider site.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...07591&page=100

 

I'd love to help you all out....but I just don't know all of the legal restrictions connected with doing that sort of thing. As a worse case scenario, I can picture myself getting deported for black marketeering, which wouldn't be too cool.

 

have a look at this ... maybe they will import to the states?

http://www.jp-parts.com/

 

You still want one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KLX30...QQcmdZViewItem

 

[align=center]




イグナイタ種類

点�時期（BTDC)


KLX250SR
5°/1700rpm
40°/5000rpm


KLX300R
5°/1700rpm
40°/3000rpm


KLX250ES
10°/1300rpm
35°/5000rpm


KLX250 prior to adv limit
10°/1300rpm
35°/5000rpm


KLX250 with adv limit
10°/1300rpm
25°/5000rpm[/align][align=center][/align][align=center]Just some added info on ignitors for those who are interested. Above infoUSED to be in table format but I lost that during the cut-n-paste. It shows where minimum and maximum advance happens for the various igniters available in Japan. The ignitor of choic for the KLX250/D-trackercomes from the KLX250SR, which I think is pretty much the same as the old KLX250R in the U.S. According to this chart, the KLX300 ingnitor is has already advanced the timing to 40 deg BTDC by 3000RPM. The website I got these figures from was throwing aroundan acronym called MBT (Minimum advance for Best Torque). If you notice the figures next to the 250SR ignitor, you don't reach 40BTDC until 5000RPM which -according to them- is to optimize the low-end torque/responsiveness at low revs. That's probably not as important on the KLX300 because the larger displacementprobably off-setsany loss of low-end grunt. The documentation also goes-on to say that the rev limiter on our bikes, begins to cut back on the spark at 10,500RPM and completely kills thespark at 11,000RPM. With the KLX250SR/R or KLX300, there is no rev limit.[/align][align=center][/align][align=center]That's about all I have for trivia right now. The site had dyno graphs prior to letting their domain expire. Now all I can get is the cached text. The largest gain they had was about 1/2hp. [/align]

 

Very informative post Tremor. Thank you.

 

I find it interesting that most people who have done the mod report that they feel a difference, but you don't see much of anything on a dyno.

Since most of your basic dynos measure what is basically roll-on torque and acceleration in a pretty high gear, maybe that is why you don't see much. I can feel a difference when I'm fanning through the first 4 gears of my dealer's bike, though it's not huge.

 

Gary, I think that I may have some info for you on the KLX300 CDI.

- The CDI has seven wires coming out of it. Three wires (BK/Y, BL, BK/W) to one connector and four wires (W, R, G/W, W/Y) to another connector?

- Of the seven, here's where I think that they should go (but there a question about two of them).

BL (blue) - goes to the KLX250's big connectors blue wire - this goes to the ignition coil
BK/Y - chassis ground
BK/W - goes to the KLX250's small connector BK/W - this is the "kill switch" function - (a ground on this kills the ignition)
G/W - goes to the G/W on the big connector (one side of the pickup coil)
W/Y - goes to W/Y on the small connector (the other side of the pickup coil)

White and Red: these are power connections and I'm not sure about how they should be hooked up. These connect to the KLX300's magneto. In order to figure out how to hook these up, we need to know what is the voltage across these two wires coming off of the magneto. If it's 12VDC, then we're good to go, then we would hook these up to the big connector's BRown (switched 12VDC) and BK/Y ground (I'll guess the the CDI White should go to BRown).

If the KLX300's W vs. R voltage is something other than 12VDC, then that's something that we'll have to deal with. If it's a smaller DC voltage, then a small voltage regulator can easily get us there.

 

After a bit more research, it appears that the Red and White output of the magneto is a non-rectified output. That is, it is a AC output. I suspect that this AC voltage is rectified/regulated in the CDI. If there is a full wave bridge rectifier at the R-W input of the CDI, then applying 12VDC to these terminals should be OK. (The 12V will just pass with a small voltage drop).

However, this may not be enough voltage to operate the CDI and the bike won't run. If this doesn't work, then there's a couple of small circuits that will bump up the voltage (or even convert it back to AC).

 

Thanks Dan! Looks like it's time for me to get back after it.

Stand Back! I'm goin in!!