1014-00087--------Muzzy Full Exhaust

The factory is spittin em out; ups, fedEx etc... There is hope upAir in Oregon. Little fabrica workers are doin overtime on that pipe.
Got me 47toother comin tamarra and the chain is 120 linker waitin ta be sized down accordingly.

Dyno charts approve the slide with 2washer/spacers & clip, but no need fer the jets until that muzz is in.

1014-00087--------Muzzy Full Exhaust = slap it on and run the **** outta it on the dyno yet again...

Rustinaway until the muzz is on the way,

NoBrakes better disconnect the tail brake light = might actually use the brakes & destroy that "NoBrakes" reputation once this pipe is on.

 

You have a dyno? (drool) So what are your before and after results for what you've done so far? I'd be really interested in stock vs final (jetting, airbox, exhaust). My pipe is supposed to be here on Friday. I've already put in for a vacation day

 

Dude,

www.sabinperformance.com has the dyno, plus 15yrs experience on it and pulled outta professional sponsorship in 1996 - he's got posters of himself made by the sponsors of himself doin stoppies in 1993 after winning races.

I'll never know stock, since I went balistic on the stock muffler with that long drill bit. But there was 10% gain after adding new FMF needle on 4th down clipped with 2washers atop to mimic the head on the factory needle, plus snorkel removed. His charting & expertise told me to hold off on jets until the full muzzy comes in.

overall it's at 21hp & 14.7 torque and sharp throttle response and it's still running rich, so Jim said to basically "chill out" and wait for the muzzy full exhaust prior to jetting or I'd be bitchin about boggin & lack of throttle response.

I've got Todd's kdx200 snorkel coming in today from that kawasaki dealer.

I'll bring a USB storage device and get JPEGs of the maps for the before & after on the muzzy/jetting with all details for each map (jet # etc..)

Rustin

 

Ah - yes, I clicked on that late last night and about jumped out of my chair as the music started blaring super loud - I thought for sure I woke up the rest of the house [sm=insomnia.gif]. I haven't jumped like that since playing Doom3.

That's pretty good - I think someone said the stock setup is 18 hp so 21 is about 16% improvement, before even adding the muzzy with the much larger header pipe and less constriction.

Please do! I'd love to know the optimal setup after adding the muzzy full system. Currently I have the KDX200 high flow snorkel, stock pipe drilled 1/2" through first baffle, crank case air box vent drilled to 3/8's, #125 main jet, pilot out 2.5 turns, the adjustable N1TC needle with clip on the 2nd ring, and the slide vent hole drilled to 7/64ths. The needle is still adjustable so that is an option. Also, I'm wondering about the main jet - would a #128 be better, worse, about the same? What else should be considered? The dyno has the answers.

Too bad testing the various combinations is so much effort - remove the carb, dismantle, adjust, reassemble, reinstall carb, run tests, repeat. In an ideal world there would be a **** for each adjustable component that you could adjust in real time while the bike is actually running on the dyno.

 

ideal world already arrived on the crotch rockets - they purchase a power commander and the mapping changed electronically, no manual jetting.

back to our reality:
We'll have the 200KDX snorkel on
We'll have the full muzzy
I'll be running the FMF needle which is private label of the the dyno kit
Jim will push the jetting to whatever the maps shows best response & overall numbers
I'll have the maps & info to reaffirm or assist in whatever you've done
I'll mention this vent drilling 3/8" once again to Jim and see where he wants to go with it.

Later,
Rustin

 

All of my mods are based on others' hard work. While there are several variations w/regard to needle, which clip position, main jet size, etc, I specifically followed those as recommended by bmwhd primarily in this forum. Other folks may have slightly different setups.

To the best of my understanding, the purpose of drilling the airbox's crankcase vent port to 3/8" is to relieve a little back pressure from the piston at high RPM, which presumably allows it to move a little more freely and thus get a little better performance at the higher RPMs. I doubt this change will have much affect if any at the lower RPMs. I'd be interested in what your guy says about it.

Those dyno charts will tell the story though - there's nothing like good hard objective data to remove the guesswork and subjective "feelings" about what is making a real difference and what is just making noise, if you know what I mean .

 

NoBrakes,

I'll print out your reasoning for the 3/8" drilling & show it to Jim - this will have more impact than my interpretation.

Thank You,
Rustin