KLX250S Driveability Issues
#11
01-16-2013, 05:14 PM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: White Bear Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 152
I did this when I installed the dynojet kit.........
I soaked everything thoroughly overnight and made sure everything was open.
That was my concern since I believe the bike had sat alot with only 168 miles on the ODO.
Thanks....
I soaked everything thoroughly overnight and made sure everything was open.
That was my concern since I believe the bike had sat alot with only 168 miles on the ODO.
Thanks....
#12
01-16-2013, 05:16 PM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: White Bear Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 152
But it does this with 70 ambient.........stumbles big time until fully warm.
#13
01-16-2013, 05:21 PM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: White Bear Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 152
So, is the consensus to go to a 38 Pilot?
Where is the best place to get these? OEM?
Working on the Wing now, the KLX is next in line.
Thanks for everyone's comments........the bike is almost perfect except for this issue.
Where is the best place to get these? OEM?
Working on the Wing now, the KLX is next in line.
Thanks for everyone's comments........the bike is almost perfect except for this issue.
Last edited by buerkletucson; 01-16-2013 at 05:32 PM.
#14
01-16-2013, 06:25 PM
With your current mods, it's hard to visualize that this is the result of the pilot jet, but it won't hurt to try a 38 over the stock 35. I even have a 300 kit on my KLX, and it was a tiny bit rich with the 38...so went back to 35. If you haven't done the fuel level check at this point as we discussed, it might be worthwhile to address that. A too low fuel level can definitely affect the pilot jet's ability to draw the needed fuel for that circuit. Still, it seems like you've addressed most all the issues that often occur with the cold blooded nature of the bone stock model. Your DJ needle position even seems correct. Another question?...how does it idle when cold? Can you turn the throttle/idle **** up a hair to get it idle smoothly even though you can't immediately drive off? Is the sputtering mainly occurring when you try to give it throttle when still not fully warmed up?
#15
01-16-2013, 08:11 PM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: White Bear Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 152
With your current mods, it's hard to visualize that this is the result of the pilot jet, but it won't hurt to try a 38 over the stock 35. I even have a 300 kit on my KLX, and it was a tiny bit rich with the 38...so went back to 35. If you haven't done the fuel level check at this point as we discussed, it might be worthwhile to address that. A too low fuel level can definitely affect the pilot jet's ability to draw the needed fuel for that circuit. Still, it seems like you've addressed most all the issues that often occur with the cold blooded nature of the bone stock model. Your DJ needle position even seems correct. Another question?...how does it idle when cold? Can you turn the throttle/idle **** up a hair to get it idle smoothly even though you can't immediately drive off? Is the sputtering mainly occurring when you try to give it throttle when still not fully warmed up?
But I can't give it any throttle......it chokes on itself.
Been this was since I purchased it......before and after mods.
#17
01-16-2013, 09:35 PM
Good point. Without the spring swap or the slide drilling this could be an element. If the slide spring or drilling was done, I'd go ahead and put the needle clip in the 4th from the top and see what that does. The needle clip can be changed without pulling the carb off...mainly just tank removal.
#18
01-16-2013, 10:20 PM
If the slide wasn't drilled and the spring still stock, would a DJ kit cause this issue? Perhaps an overly rich condition when the throttle opened? And if that's the case, moving the DJ needle clip further down would make it even worse.
I was kind of thinking that either the slide hole was drilled too large, or the spring too weak or clipped too far, or a combination of both so that when the throttle opened, the slider rose too fast giving the engine too much air and not enough fuel. If this is the case, moving the clip down could help.
TNC, am I on the right track here?
I was kind of thinking that either the slide hole was drilled too large, or the spring too weak or clipped too far, or a combination of both so that when the throttle opened, the slider rose too fast giving the engine too much air and not enough fuel. If this is the case, moving the clip down could help.
TNC, am I on the right track here?
Last edited by IDRIDR; 01-16-2013 at 10:23 PM.
#19
01-16-2013, 10:53 PM
A hesitation would not be because of the pilot jet. Even with all the changing of the pilot jet sizes I have done, they never produced hesitation. It just messed with the idle.
Even dead cold, 20 seconds after I fire it up in the morning, I can kick the choke off and rip down the street with no hesitation. When I come up to stop sign it will want to die because it doesn't want to idle yet, but it doesn't hesitate.
I think IDRIDR is on track, sounds like something else is causing this.
#20
01-17-2013, 12:24 AM
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: White Bear Lake, Minnesota
Posts: 152
OK you guys sort of lost me here........drilling the carb slider?
I followed the Dynojet instructions for stage #2 exactly as the instructions say to, see below. I put in the spring that came with the kit #2152.
Slider was nice and smooth.
As I mentioned this problem was present before I did any mods......in fact when I purchased the bike it did the same on my test ride. But i figured it was either bad gas clogging a jet or some of the mods would fix things up.
Once fully warm she runs perfect....but before that happens I can't get her a block down the road without hesitating 3-4 times.
What about an electrical problem????
STAGE TWO INSTRUCTIONS 2152.001
1. Remove the vacuum slides from the carbs. Remove the stock needle and spacers, noting order of assembly (Fig. A).
2. Install the Dynojet needle on groove #3 from the top. Install the small Dynojet washers above the e-clip. Install the Dynojet slide spring (DSP027) in place of the stock slide spring. After installing the slide in the carb be sure to check slide movement manually.
3. Remove the stock main jet and replace with the Dynojet main jet provided. If you are running the stock exhaust install the DJ124 main jet. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip-on with high
flowing baffle use the DJ128 main jet. Be sure that the jet you are changing is the main jet.
4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B). If you see a screw head at Fig.B then proceed to the adjusting procedure. With the 5/32 drill bit provided carefully drill through the plug. NOTE: The mixture screw is directly underneath this plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you break through. Use screw provided to secure and remove this plug. Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back out 3 turns.
I followed the Dynojet instructions for stage #2 exactly as the instructions say to, see below. I put in the spring that came with the kit #2152.
Slider was nice and smooth.
As I mentioned this problem was present before I did any mods......in fact when I purchased the bike it did the same on my test ride. But i figured it was either bad gas clogging a jet or some of the mods would fix things up.
Once fully warm she runs perfect....but before that happens I can't get her a block down the road without hesitating 3-4 times.
What about an electrical problem????
STAGE TWO INSTRUCTIONS 2152.001
1. Remove the vacuum slides from the carbs. Remove the stock needle and spacers, noting order of assembly (Fig. A).
2. Install the Dynojet needle on groove #3 from the top. Install the small Dynojet washers above the e-clip. Install the Dynojet slide spring (DSP027) in place of the stock slide spring. After installing the slide in the carb be sure to check slide movement manually.
3. Remove the stock main jet and replace with the Dynojet main jet provided. If you are running the stock exhaust install the DJ124 main jet. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust or slip-on with high
flowing baffle use the DJ128 main jet. Be sure that the jet you are changing is the main jet.
4. Locate the fuel mixture plug (Fig. B). If you see a screw head at Fig.B then proceed to the adjusting procedure. With the 5/32 drill bit provided carefully drill through the plug. NOTE: The mixture screw is directly underneath this plug, be ready to pull back on the drill the instant you break through. Use screw provided to secure and remove this plug. Carefully turn the mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then back out 3 turns.