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Im having difficulties making a decision here. I currently ride a 2008 KLR. I have put a single headlight on it with cyclops bulb, trail tech odometer, hand guards, bash plate, ims pegs, doohicky, lexx maxx exhaust, uni air filter, klx jet, it has a rear luggage rack and an aftermarket 10gal tank. Theres probably a few more things. Has around 10k-11k miles.
I came across the local classifieds a 2012 KLX 250s with 11k on it. Has a metal plate, tubeless rear, handguard, afater market luggage rack, fmf exhaust. This person was looking at trading into something bigger.
So I contacted him, sent a pic and told him about my bike. We've been talking back and forth about trading. He's waiting for the title to get switched over since he recently moved here.
Normally I had visions of driving to fishing holes and doing motocamping. I did do that a time or two. I did some fire roads. Oriented my bike a little more towards off roading. KLR does not equal single track. Its a beast to pick up. I like it on the freeway. I hesitate because I am around 240 right now. Usually around 220. Its been a healthy year. I know there will be a difference in power. 250 vs 650. I know it will be more nimble. Am I going to have to put some money into it to make it better? What I mean. The rear shocks, can they adjust to handle someone my size or will I be better off buying a new rear spring? When I sit down at the ones in the store the rear really goes down. The front springs also seem soft as evident by when I apply front brake the front of the 250s will dive down. PO of my KLR installed progressive springs in it and I don't have that problem at all.
Any input would be appreciated.
As a guy who had four heavily modded toward dirt use KLR600/650's, the KLX definitely fits the role of a non-race off road bike quite well. For your weight, Race Tech makes a 6.4 rated rear spring and they have fork springs that will go up to the level necessary for your weight. If you're going to do a great deal of highway, the KLX isn't your bike. The more dirt road, jeep road, and single track that you'll do, it will be way superior to a KLR.
I rode my KLR's often in terrain they were never really intended, but that was back in the day when I raced enduros on a regular basis and was younger and fitter. You'll have to make a decision on where the bulk of your riding will take place. The KLX is decently proficient in stock trim, and it can be made into a pretty decent off roader for some really rough conditions...just not at competition speeds.
I agree with TNC... KLX is not the best hiway ride when setup and geared for dirt, but makes a great trail bike... especially if you're never spent time on a true light weight dirtbike...LOL
I'm 235 and run 6.6 rear spring and .48 fronts.... great for spirited trail riding.
You might consider splitting the difference and picking up a DRZ400. The 5 speed is not optimal on the hiway, but there are many who use it for both dirt and street.
What's funny about 5sp tranny's is the ratio of the 5th gear. We fight the misconception constantly on the Indian forum - whereby the Scout 60 5spd and the "big" Scout 6sp have identical 1:1 top gears, yet there is a persistent perception is that the 5sp is inferior for the highway...lol
The common perception is that a 6spd offers an "overdrive" 6th gear that is better for the highway - at this point, I know of no such animal as a production "overdrive" 6th gear. All (street bike) top gears are 1:1 whether it's a 4, 5, or 6 speed.. Apparently this is due to the significant extra power required to run such a gear set vs direct 1:1 gearset.. The power lost (8-10% is usually quoted) thru running a quiet helical overdrive gearset in the tranny is so profound as to negate the advantages..
I cannot find DRZ tranny ratios, but surely the top gear is 1:1 ... And surely the SM and S have the same tranny, just different size tires and spraughkets..
Point is, resist the dogma. Instead realize that tranny top ratio data is all that matters, and that generally, 5spd's can be counted on to be identical on the highway to 6spd's..
Actually the 2009 KLX 250 does go slightly over in sixth. It is 21 drive (input), 20 driven (output) for a .952:1 I learned this doing a gear spreadsheet to find differences in gearing to rpm in each gear for my 650, 550 and 250. Got the tooth count from Kawasaki parts listings again, where I got it then.
Wasn't unusual for Honda to go overdrive in some gearboxes. I think the last 650 Nighthawks were OD, where the 700s weren't but I'd have to look to be sure. Doesn't really matter though. It's all in the final drive ratio anyway.
The important point is the difference is likely so small that it really makes only a few hundred rpm difference. Problem some have with the DRz is it is more close ratio than wide, so to gear for the woods kind of kills the top speed. It could easily pull a wider ratio transmission or run a six speed to get better range. Stock, the DRz is totally capable of running 70-80 all day long. Just ask my friend about his 400SM. We've done it. Fact is with crazy high 15/39 final drive on a KLX250 one could likely run around at 75 mph all day long... unless into a head wind. Takes some power to push a headwind.
Personally I'd love to see a 7 speed KLX250S. Have a true woods capable 1st and a 7th that could hum down the highway at 70 all day long. No more need to swap out counter shaft sprockets. It'd be fun.
Have a true woods capable 1st and a 7th that could hum down the highway at 70 all day long. No more need to swap out counter shaft sprockets. It'd be fun.
That is how you properly employ more gears. You leave the tranny top gear at 1:1, set the sprockets for the highway performance you want with the extra gear ratios below it re-gigger'd for better offroad use.. Nothing about "overdrive tranny gears" involved - you get the very best of everything with the highly efficient top gear ratio of 1:1..
Before anyone starts in on why this ain't been done already - it has.. And the peeps that complain about lower gears being "too high" immediately switch over to complaining about lower gears being "too low" and therefore useless.. For instance, give me a tractor gear for 1st, and I'm never gonna use it - I'll use 2nd as my "1st" gear...
Hey, don’t let your weight steer you away from a KLX250. I’m 55, and 285 lbs and my bike is fine for me. I have no trouble keeping up with good (B) riders on their 300 to 450cc Beta’s, KTM’s and Husky’s on the trails and sand fire roads, with others that can’t keep up with me. It’s 85% rider skill, not the bike. With proper suspension setup, and a few mods, the KLX is a decent affordable trail bike, low/no maintenance, and reliable. Now, for speeds over 50ish mph on the street for any distance, that’s a different story if your looking for long rides on a highway. I’m geared for tight technical single trak, not the street. I only hit the pavement to gas up, a bite to eat, or jump between trail sections. Plus, I need a street legal plated bike inorder to ride the State Forests I ride often.
The problem with a 5 spd box, is that it is only 5 spds. On a stock 250 and near 250#s, you will need that extra gear. Maybe not on a 400, but you'll be using a clutch alot in technical sections of ST, maybe not much of a problem for camping/Froads. I could see a DZ400 working too!
05-09-2018, 01:55 AM
To KLX or not
