KLX 331 Valve clearances.
Guys,
The book states that the valve clearances at cold are :
Standard:
Exhaust 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.)
Inlet 0.10 ∼ 0.19 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0075 in.)
I set mine at
Inlet 0.15 mm
Exhaust 0.20 mm
Now i have started the engine it is a bit tappy on the top end which it wasn't before i fitted the BB kit and did the valves.
IS this normal and my bike was a bit tight before ?
Or is there a recommendation you guys can make with a tighter tolerance than the Kawasaki ?
Thanks again guys.
George
The book states that the valve clearances at cold are :
Standard:
Exhaust 0.15 ∼ 0.24 mm (0.0059 ∼ 0.0094 in.)
Inlet 0.10 ∼ 0.19 mm (0.0039 ∼ 0.0075 in.)
I set mine at
Inlet 0.15 mm
Exhaust 0.20 mm
Now i have started the engine it is a bit tappy on the top end which it wasn't before i fitted the BB kit and did the valves.
IS this normal and my bike was a bit tight before ?
Or is there a recommendation you guys can make with a tighter tolerance than the Kawasaki ?
Thanks again guys.
George
It is better to be loose, as with a DOHC they only get tighter. I set mine up to near the max clearance & believe it makes more noise, but it will give a longer service life till the need to reshim or revalve.
Your clearances are just about exactly what I set mine to when i did my 330 kit. At 3K miles i went +1 shim size on all valves and could not go +2 or I would be outside max spec.
but FYI I do not notice any more or less tapping on the top end than I did before, you are right smack in the middle of recommended specs, it should run perfectly.
I would not go tighter than Kawi specs, an overly tight valve can and will stay open and burn your valves and seats, then you get to spend $1K on a new cylinder head and valves.
Did you use assembly lube? Or heavily oil the cams/lifters? Make sure you are getting oil up there. The head oil passages to the cam are incredibly tiny and easily clogged with debris when the engine is apart.
but FYI I do not notice any more or less tapping on the top end than I did before, you are right smack in the middle of recommended specs, it should run perfectly.
I would not go tighter than Kawi specs, an overly tight valve can and will stay open and burn your valves and seats, then you get to spend $1K on a new cylinder head and valves.
Did you use assembly lube? Or heavily oil the cams/lifters? Make sure you are getting oil up there. The head oil passages to the cam are incredibly tiny and easily clogged with debris when the engine is apart.
Last edited by jabara572; Jun 14, 2017 at 03:44 PM.
Yes, I used assembly lube when i rebuilt it.
I checked all oil passageways were clear and there seems to be plenty oil when i took the cams out to re-torque the head. I have only started the engine but not driven the bike yet as my forks are off at the moment.
Might check the valve clearances again after i bed the engine in.
Cheers
I checked all oil passageways were clear and there seems to be plenty oil when i took the cams out to re-torque the head. I have only started the engine but not driven the bike yet as my forks are off at the moment.
Might check the valve clearances again after i bed the engine in.
Cheers
Not sure if valves set on the larger end of the spec are that noticeably noisier though once the motor warms up. I did not perceive that, tho my ears are over 50 years old and don't work like they used to...
TC
Running larger clearances can have its benefits. Not only do the valves stay in spec longer ,but running to the loose side of spec means the valve stays on its seat longer. The seat (or seat time) is the only time the valve gets cooling.
I adjusted mine to end of spec. Not any louder then before. Valves were about mid spec.
I adjusted mine to end of spec. Not any louder then before. Valves were about mid spec.
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