it turns the same speed, just takes more amperage to turn it since there's more compression during start up rpm.

 

It is known that well done MCM's start instantly - I wonder if this "instant starting" is more of a result of disabling the KACR or a better "re-position" that enhances startups. (those of us that did the re-position..)

Not necessarily the altered cam timings..?

We also know that hot starting is all-but impossible if you don't re-position or remove/disable the KACR..

 

I can tell you that after I did the MCM the bike pretty much started the same as before. After I removed the KACR it starts on just a bump of the starter button.

Pwjm is right. A good quality battery is essential. My bike was cold when I got home from work and I cranked it without applying the choke and was able to kill the battery in about 2 sessions of 5 seconds of cranking.

 

Well , Marcelino suggests a little more than 1/4" on the re-position - which is what I did.. He stated that a little more than 1/4" (8-9mm to be exact) will give a little more compression for starts - it certainly did..

So, Ruggy, did you go at least 1/4" on your re-position?

 

Good question. Nope, I put it back exactly as Kawi had it timed. I just don't think it's a nessasary thing to have plus the Kawasaki manual says it not serviceable. Even though it presses back on who know it that little sucker might decide to leave the end of the cam.

 

Ahh.. Ut Oh... It's well known that with the cams properly MCM'd and the KACR left in the stock position, the engine will not start, or will be extremely difficult to start, when warm/hot..

So you having put the KACR back to its' stock position and still having good warm/hot starting begs the question - Did you retard your exhaust cam correctly ?

Or do you mean that you did re-position the KACR 1/4" ( which would be back to its' stock position if looking at it from across the room, while @ TDC), but you did not go all the way to 1/3" like I did..?

 

MCM was done correctly. I chose the wrong words. First thing I did was put the motor in TDC and with the cam timing stock I noted the position on the KACR in relation to the top of the cylinder head. Next I removed both cams, pressed the KACR of the exhaust cam and then reposition the gears. I laid the exhaust cam back on the head and in the MCM timing positon then position the KACR back in the same position in relation to the head as with the stock cam timing. I marked the new position on the cam and KACR and pressed it back on. The end result is that the KACR is in the same stock timed position in relation to crankshaft position.

If you don't remove or reposition the KACR you are effectively changing it's timed relationship between the crankshaft (piston position) and the KACR. I just put mine back to the stock position so it "decompresses" exactly as before.

 

Ok, good... I thought that was probably the case.. Interesting that you didn't experience the "instant starts" with KACR kept at standard position (in relation to the crank).. Kinda dispels the idea that the cam retiming helps with starts...

So it follows that if you (or anyone) were to re-position 8-9mm (about 1/3"), the "instant starts" would be the outcome..

Marcelino noted that the stock KACR timing on his bike was at the ragged edge of acceptable performance. He surmised that any engine like his would become hard to start, when hot, if any additional compression was lost - due to age, etc...

 

After I did the MCM my bike start exactly as it had before, hot or cold but I never did have any issues with starting. It always would crank 1-2 seconds and fire up. Now after removing the KACR I just look at the starter button and it starts.

 

My bike started well below freezing and I've cycled it for about 10 seconds or more to see if it would start with 2 week old gas in the carb - it didn't - drained the gas - which took about 15 seconds with a match in contact to light and burn - and the bike fired up near instantly. Of course I replaced the junked out Bikemaster battery with a good new Yuasa. Both a friend and I have had bad experience with Bikemaster. Seems size doesn't matter, they can put in less material inside the same case and sell a lesser battery.

As for staying on topic I guarantee you out of all those over 800 posts there are a heck of a lot that are NOT on topic. You could reduce the content of any thread or forum by about 40% if you removed off topic stuff in the threads.

Nothing wrong with trailing off topic at times and that jetting stuff started out with questions about jetting and elevation with the MCM, so technically still on topic. After all, what would one say, "I know a way to take care of your jetting, but it isn't dealing directly with MCM so I can't tell you."? (By the way, I hope this last comment is taken with the spot of humor and light scarcasm intended. It is not meant to insult, it is to make a simple point why some off topic stuff develops.)