klx 250 E1 (1997).

i had a 80mm piston, exhaust and header, DJ stage II and reprofiled cams, no ACR.

after cracking a valve, my piston got a hole like a quarter $, and the head was totally demolished...

i found a 250 cyllinder and a knew head and rebuilded all the engine (new conrod, all new bearings, etc)

i just finished the entire job.

like i said, OEM 72mm piston (249cc), reprofiled cams, ported head, about 11,8CR, marcelino cam mode, exhaust, no snorkel.

i will run the kawasaki 132 main jet, DJ jet needle at place 3, pilot screw 2 turns out, for start. Altitude is 2000ft.

please inform me if sg is wrong with my choices.... thank ya all

i havent tested the bike yet (i have problems with clutch not well builted), but it cranks ok
i will soon tell my impressions, hope for a dyno chart also, when i set up th carb via a narrowband lambda.

 

I have no information to offer about a 1997 KLX. Sorry..

 

the 97 klx have exactly the same engine (except the egr valve), same cam timing and same CVK34, so whatever you know for the klx 250S fits the 1997 klxG1 or E1.

 

Ok then, do the mod, put on a slip-on ( DG-R is good and the cheapest ) pull off the airbox lid, put in the DJ kit as per instructions BUT using the #132 jet and , if your near sea level, set the clip one notch lower on the DJ needle than the instructions call for. If your near 2k ASL , leave the clip on the needle as per instructions.
You'll have as good an AFR as can be had with the DJ kit and at least 20hp and at least 15lbft of trq.

Good luck

 

thanks,

i needed to confirm i have selected the proper carb settings..

i will inform tomorow afternoon, after fixing the starter circuit (starter relay problem) and the clutch (i have forgotten to put a washer so the clutch lever couldnt push enough to release the clutch)

as for the DG-R i allready have a crappy custom made header and box, but it is very noisy, so probably i will go for the DG-R after a few months.

 

I have no data for a proper jetting recipe at elevations above 2k. At MSL, you'll still be a little lean but bog at "throttle snap open" precludes raising ( clip lower on needle ) the needle any higher. If you get this bog, you'll be forced to put the needle back to standard stage 2 and (At MSL) AFR's will go up over 15:1 at times.

 

has anyone tried the mcm with more aggressive camshafts?

i have almost +1.5 mm lift and about +20 degrees...

 

No one has, and it'd probably lead to trouble due to the LSA being so narrow

 

No it wouldn't. The lobe center angle is not narrow.

With added duration, this is precisely the mod that you want to do. Like I said in a previous post, when you add duration, you can then use camshaft phasing to move the powerband back down to buy back some of the low end power you lost by adding duration. The overall effect will be to broaden the power curve, instead of just moving it up.

 

Turbomaniac (turbos are really fun), Marcelino's post on the valve clearance is at 282 There is only a difference of .20mm (.007") in clearance. Take a look.

Zomby, were you the guy who has done cam work in cars or bikes before? I remember someone here mentioned it early on in the thread.