It would be rotating weight, not reciprocating.

 

Well, I got .005" valve clearance, so the cams are coming out anyway, so the compression release will be gone (but marked for future re-installation if necessary).

I also looked at the dyno sheets from Marcelino and those given by some media for the stock 250. Marcelino's shows a sharper drop off after peak horsepower compared to the others, but the Marcelino dyno sheets show the bike still carrying higher horsepower which would be a sign of higher torque after the drop, so it should still pull decently. These were the only things stopping me from doing the re-timing first and foremost the compression release deal and then the ability to over-rev as needed.

So, hi-ho hi-ho it's removing cams I go... I'll reinstall the cam cover to keep the gasket good to go, hi-ho hi-ho...

 

I have now run a few tankfuls of fuel through my bike. I reckon, doing only the inlet timing only, it uses about 5 to 10% more fuel.

 

5 to 10% more fuel is admirable. Your staying off the throttle far more than I can ..

Do a slip-on, rejet with DJ kit using #132 jet (for UK altitude) , pull off the lid - Then see if you can stay out of the throttle. lol

 

Not much altitude (but plenty of attitude) in the UK and nowhere to put the jet :-)
EFI!

 

Cams are out, shims on order. I may see about starting a shim trading thread, at $12 a shot they ain't cheap.

I am not removing the KACR, but am disabling it mechanically, locking the shoes out with - of all things - coat hanger!



Made a squared off U bend, 41mm inside length, perfect fit with the shoes full out, disabling the CR. Then...




I bent the wire out to the outside and clipped the excess off.

Cost - $0, time - 5 minutes. I removed the spring and put it in the tool box. If I want to reverse the process I cut the wire in the middle, take it out and put the spring back. If the bike starts good, I might consider paying to have the CR pressed out. Until then, this will work for the cam timing mod.

 

So glad you own one of these now! Thank you, that is genius. I'm going to use a bicycle spoke. Didn't want to do the bolt removal trick and a machine shop is unavailable...so now I don't have to re-time the CR at all.

 

Wow, good info. I'd read about removing the spring to disable the ACR, but there was no mention of locking it out..

Let us know how the cam mod works out for you

 

I thought about doing the same thing. I decided to just let it go and see how it performs by only removing the spring. So far it fires right up and there is no excessive noise from the ACR.

 

I'm not sure I understand... The ACR is deactivated simply by drifting it out of the cam or by leaving it on the cam and removing the spring. Not sure I'd want a piece of coat hanger running around under my valve cover.