KLX 250 ( 300 ) camshaft mod by Marcelino
And this on page 18
"When it´s all said and done , with the engine at TDC that cutter blade that I used to indicate the position ( see the original post ) should indicate the empty space between the round piece and the one below ( the counterweight )"
"When it´s all said and done , with the engine at TDC that cutter blade that I used to indicate the position ( see the original post ) should indicate the empty space between the round piece and the one below ( the counterweight )"
1) Do you actually have to remove the exhaust cam totally or can you remove the spring with the cam still in place?
2) Have you notice any strain or anything on the starter when you fire the engine up - both hot and cold? I figured Kawasaki installed the ACR for a reason, and if I remember correctly it is to protect the starter, which is why I ask.
I think I also remember seeing something about a manual decomp for the KLX which is probably also worth looking into if I finally get around to sorting this out.
-Please remember that the method only works correctly Marcelino models from model KLX250 2009.
-If you have a previous years model, not make a profit.
-The ACR modification is recommended for all models of all ages (KLX250/300).
-If you own a KLX250 after 2009 and increase you think the engine to 300cc, I have obtained better results by changing the cam just does not carry the ACR, not both. I guess the older cylinder Marcelino method is not as beneficial. Therefore, when the modification is better will the post 250 models 2009.
-If you have a previous years model, not make a profit.
-The ACR modification is recommended for all models of all ages (KLX250/300).
-If you own a KLX250 after 2009 and increase you think the engine to 300cc, I have obtained better results by changing the cam just does not carry the ACR, not both. I guess the older cylinder Marcelino method is not as beneficial. Therefore, when the modification is better will the post 250 models 2009.
Has anyone tried both moving only the exhaust timing (post 428) and moving both intake and exhaust as in Marcelino's first post?
Does either procedure work better? Does one gain more by doing both vs only the exhaust?
As I read it, the ACR doesn't have to be messed with if only the exhaust timing is moved?
Thanks
Does either procedure work better? Does one gain more by doing both vs only the exhaust?
As I read it, the ACR doesn't have to be messed with if only the exhaust timing is moved?
Thanks
So essentially then this is what's happening.. On the intake side for example
If you could spin the the cam after you took the cam gear bolts out, with everything else in place- you would remove the bolts, grab the cam, turn it CW to line up with the EX holes and reinstall the bolts.
Then lift the cam chain off the intake cam gear and turn the gear and cam assembly 2 teeth CCW
?
(forgot the question mark..)
If you could spin the the cam after you took the cam gear bolts out, with everything else in place- you would remove the bolts, grab the cam, turn it CW to line up with the EX holes and reinstall the bolts.
Then lift the cam chain off the intake cam gear and turn the gear and cam assembly 2 teeth CCW
?
(forgot the question mark..)
Last edited by Richard Avatar; Jul 6, 2013 at 04:55 AM.
Still looking for an answer?
Has anyone tried both moving only the exhaust timing (post 428) and moving both intake and exhaust as in Marcelino's first post?
Does either procedure work better? Does one gain more by doing both vs only the exhaust?
As I read it, the ACR doesn't have to be messed with if only the exhaust timing is moved?
Thanks
Does either procedure work better? Does one gain more by doing both vs only the exhaust?
As I read it, the ACR doesn't have to be messed with if only the exhaust timing is moved?
Thanks


