I had pretty well formed the opinion, after all the reading on this site about starting problems of varying degrees, that the ACR settings from the factory varied a bit from bike to bike. I had no way to know for sure or to measure if this is so. Is there a simple way to tell if the ACR is working as it is supposed to? e.g. maybe compression checks with specific procedures?

 

I did not change the acr, I just removed the spring so that it would retract as soon as the cam started turning. (same as removing acr).

My question was concerning carb jetting. I'm running the stock carb (cvk34)
with 38 pilot, 1mm shim under needle, and 135 main jet. bike runs great at all rpm, unless I go full throttle from less than 4000 rpm.

 

The stock needle is not very aggresive. That is one big benefit of a dynojet kit. Other than the jets and instructions and tech support etc. Worth the money in the long run. When I did the cam mod one size up on the main worked out good.

 

There is no accurate way to check the proper adjustment of the ACR.
Visually you can guess with some experience. In the first pictures of this post shows Marcelino in indicating that the ACR is below the horizontal line without exceeding the engine, better start.
Some ACR I've seen are incredibly up and these tend to always boot problems, whether or not they made ​​the change

 

Forget about the ACR. My ACR is disabled, it does not do anything.

 

I also guessed that one size up would be what I needed, but I was lean at full throttle before the mod so I went up 2 sizes on the main. Maybe I wasn't as lean as I thought. The bike runs great if I get to 5000 RPM before going WOT.
I'm gonna tear it back down and re-check cam timing and carb jetting.

 

Just get the dynojet kit. The needle is what makes the difference. Or try a klx300 needle. The dynojet kit works for sure and others can help. With your setup is hard to provide help. The stock needle is setup for emissions not performance. I know the dynojet kit works great with the stock bore cam mod setup. I really had fun with the cam mod, it made the bike fun to ride. It is a great mod if you are not quite ready for a big bore. After the BB it is a totally different bike. For the hell of it try the next size smaller main?

 

Thanks, I already have a klx300 needle on order, but since I already have several keihn jets, I'll stay with them.

 

Someone on this thread asked if anyone had used a degree wheel to check the cams, and I agree that if you really want to know what's going on with your camshaft, that' what you need to do, so in trying to diagnose my problems, I decided to put a degree wheel on and see........

according to my readings, which I'm allowing a +- 2 deg error because I couldn't stand the indicator perfectly in-line with the valve stem and possible some human error

I did take all readings 3 times and came up with same numbers each time.
with camshaft advanced 11.5 degrees (1/2 tooth), the intake is open .050 at 12 degrees BTDC and is closed to .050 at 18 degrees ABDC
The exhaust is open .050 at 20 deg BBDC and closes to .050 at 10 deg ATDC.
This gives a usable duration of 210 deg on intake and exhaust.

This also puts the cam centerline at 93 deg ATDC for intake and 95 deg BTDC for the exhaust. IMHO, these are acceptable for good low & midrange torque.

In stock configuration, this would be .5 deg BTDC for intake opening .050 and 29.5 deg ABDC closed to .050. for a cam centerline of 104.5 deg
the exhaust would be 31.5 BBDC opening to .050 and 1.5 deg BTDC for closing to .050. for a cam centerline of 106.5.

One other thing I discovered is that the closing ramps on both cams take 40+ degrees to close the valve from .050 lift to completely closed.
The opening ramps only take less than 20 deg for opening the same amount.

HOWEVER!!! after saying all this,,,, I still love the low end torque I have now, If I can get the carb jetted correctly.......

It would be great if someone else would do this and see if I made errors,
( 3 times in a row)...

..

 

This makes for a big discrepancy with Kawasaki published numbers:


Surely those numbers are not referenced to 50mil lift like yours. It looks like Kawasaki numbers are referenced to valve nearly closed. You measured 21.5 deg (intake) and 29.5 (exhaust) less advance on opening. On valve closing, your measurements are 32.5 deg (intake) 20.5 deg(exhaust) less retard.

The 50mil lift measurements are recognized in the industry as a more useful reference for evaluating and comparing camshaft related engine dynamics. WebCam specifies both timing at total closure, and timing @50mil lift, which is best in my opinion as this gives you some information on closing and opening ramps. I find it cheap from Kawasaki to not do the same...

With this, we are getting closer to Kawasaki numbers, though there is some discrepancy in intake and exhaust differences...

Anyway, good job!