Kick Starting -- What's going on?

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  #41  
Old 02-03-2012, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TNC
A defective KACR isn't a very common failure item. The starting issue where some have mentioned a dealership modding the KACR to allow more compression is one possible method of dealing with the poor cold starting, but I think the drilling of the starter jet is a bit easier and maybe better for the starter and battery. The starter jet allows the compression to be maintained at the lower level as designed with the KACR while providing the extra fuel needed for cold starting.
I think you have posted a picture before of the starter jet. Could you or someone post it again so i know what one it is. This will be done this summer when I do the 351 kit. Wow, another thing to add to my list. Drill bit #77? Just want to make sure I've got everything I need for when I have the bike apart so I won't have to do it again, or have the bike down for longer than needed.
 
  #42  
Old 02-03-2012, 02:12 PM
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Here's a pic. I'm not sure on the #77 standard, as I used an .018" version. The "77" is probably just a different standard but same size.
 
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  #43  
Old 02-03-2012, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
Here's a pic. I'm not sure on the #77 standard, as I used an .018" version. The "77" is probably just a different standard but same size.
#77 = 0.018" = 0.4572mm

Ride on
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  #44  
Old 02-03-2012, 10:14 PM
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  #45  
Old 02-04-2012, 04:24 AM
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Thanks for the pictures and the equation.
 
  #46  
Old 02-04-2012, 12:06 PM
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Thought you might find this interesting.

Someone had previously drilled my starter jet with a #77 (.018) bit and I was still having starting issues (probably not due to that) so I drilled it the next size bigger, at least that I could find, a #76 (.020). What I've found is that my idle when the choke is fully engaged has lowered. The bike used to run nearly 4000 rpm. Now it starts at about 3500 or so and then after a few seconds (maybe 10) it drops down to 2000 rpm. I actually prefer this rpm than the 4000 I had before.

I don't understand the initial drop from 3500 to 2000. Maybe someone hear can explain that. Is it possible the primer bulb is leaking some fuel into the carb after things get going??? I don't know, but it's all I can come up with.

Jon
 
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:49 PM
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Just following up on my starting. The bike is still starting great. Yesterday, it took 3 kicks and that's been the most since I had my breakthrough. Started it today with 1 kick.

I still have this question though. I'm still seeing the revs at around 3500 with full choke right after starting. It then drops to around 2000 about 10 seconds or so afterward. Same thing I mentioned in the post before. I thought it could be the primer leaking into the intake, so I removed that and installed a new airbox duct (with no holes) and new fuel lines. The rpm acts the same even with the new boot and primer removed. Again, this is only with full choke. It makes me question the starter jets influence on the bike. It would appear that the drop in rpm is a reflection of a richer mix of air/fuel. Does a larger starter jet orifice cause this??

Any idea why the bike acts this way? New post necessary?

Thanks,

Jon
 
  #48  
Old 02-05-2012, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jworth94
Just following up on my starting. The bike is still starting great. Yesterday, it took 3 kicks and that's been the most since I had my breakthrough. Started it today with 1 kick.

I still have this question though. I'm still seeing the revs at around 3500 with full choke right after starting. It then drops to around 2000 about 10 seconds or so afterward. Same thing I mentioned in the post before. I thought it could be the primer leaking into the intake, so I removed that and installed a new airbox duct (with no holes) and new fuel lines. The rpm acts the same even with the new boot and primer removed. Again, this is only with full choke. It makes me question the starter jets influence on the bike. It would appear that the drop in rpm is a reflection of a richer mix of air/fuel. Does a larger starter jet orifice cause this??

Any idea why the bike acts this way? New post necessary?

Thanks,

Jon
The larger starter jet does add more fuel obviously, so you do have to get off the choke a bit quicker as a general rule. But it does its job by allowing a quicker start. As to your reference about the rpm, I never really look at my tach while on choke. As long as it fires up quickly when cold, I just get off choke as soon as possible and on the pilot and air/fuel screw as quickly as possible. I often just turn the idle **** up a bit while I'm strapping on my helmet and such, and then drive off as soon as it will take throttle. Too much choke and too much idle builds up more deposits than are optimum for the engine.
 
  #49  
Old 02-05-2012, 06:52 PM
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Mine does the same thing. As TNC said, it's running richer with choke than it did before. I noticed my stock bike would rev very high with the choke, and if the choke was cut too soon, it would die. And had to be very careful giving it throttle until it was very warm or it would die.

Now, with choke on, it probably comes up similar to what your noticing, runs there for a while, then usually slows down instead of continuing to rev up. I think that's because its very rich.
 
  #50  
Old 02-07-2012, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Landon
What if your out in the middle of nowhere not riding with anyone though? I would agree that probably 99% of the time a kickstart is not needed, but for 300 bucks if you just needed it one time it would be worth the price and the few pounds it adds to the bike.
Honestly? You want an honest answer?

If you're out riding alone in the middle of nowwhere, you're a fool. That simple. Lets take your point one step further, what if you are out in the middle of nowhere all alone and you get a compound fracture of your leg or arm?

I'd have a partner riding with me any time over having a kick starter. And I still stand by my rationale.
 


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