Jetting KLX300R

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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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Default Jetting KLX300R

Need some help on jetting a 06' 300R. We are going to put a FMF Powercore IV SO, and remove the snorkle. Anyone have the numbers? Also, broke my clavical(not on the KLX, but on a BMX bike)about a month ago. Going to try a ride this weekend. Miss my 250S. Thanks in advance!
 
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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Default RE: Jetting KLX300R

300cc? Then just do the Dynojet Kit & be done. Follow their instructions. I did & am VERY pleased, especially witht he Vortex throttle.
 
Old Oct 29, 2007 | 10:31 PM
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Default RE: Jetting KLX300R

This is not for a 250s. We have a customer with a 300R and I just want to bump the main and pilot for the slip on without a snorkle.

 
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 02:37 AM
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Default RE: Jetting KLX300R

I know it is not for a 250S. Get the 300R DJ kit[sm=trust_me.gif].
 
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 02:47 AM
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Default RE: Jetting KLX300R

I have a 250 with a 300 cyl. stock pilot 132 main dynojet needle two bro slip on open air box k&n filter at 600 feet elevation. Hope that helps.
 
Old Oct 30, 2007 | 02:55 AM
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I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
 
Old Dec 11, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Resurrecting an old thread here.

I jumped into the new-to-me 300R a bit last night. At idle it sure smelled rich. So I pulled the top of the airbox and it seems to run better. Unlike my 250S - there was no additional intake noise with the lid removed. I couldn't take the extra noise on the 250S so went back to lid on/snorkel out. Is that due to a difference in valve timing?

A quick look showed stock airfilter, backfire screen still in, no change in the crankcase breather. I haven't pulled the carb yet to check jetting, spring or slide changes but I'm so glad to do it without that dang starter in the way. It has a Powercore 4 with no quiet core and the stock 300 headpipe.

A casual search shows most similar 300R's going with 132/35 but I don't know if that's a 132 Keihin or 132 Dynojet. Also, how many turns out on the fueslcrew? I haven't seen that little detail anywhere.
 
Old Dec 11, 2012 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by djchan
Resurrecting an old thread here.

I jumped into the new-to-me 300R a bit last night. At idle it sure smelled rich. So I pulled the top of the airbox and it seems to run better. Unlike my 250S - there was no additional intake noise with the lid removed. I couldn't take the extra noise on the 250S so went back to lid on/snorkel out. Is that due to a difference in valve timing?

A quick look showed stock airfilter, backfire screen still in, no change in the crankcase breather. I haven't pulled the carb yet to check jetting, spring or slide changes but I'm so glad to do it without that dang starter in the way. It has a Powercore 4 with no quiet core and the stock 300 headpipe.

A casual search shows most similar 300R's going with 132/35 but I don't know if that's a 132 Keihin or 132 Dynojet. Also, how many turns out on the fueslcrew? I haven't seen that little detail anywhere.
dj, this won't answer your questions specifically, but I found that when I added the OEM 300 cylinder to my '06 KLX250S with full Muzzy and all airbox mods, the jetting didn't require a change whatsoever. Now, I already had the full DJ carb kit and mods, but even needle position and fuel screw adjustment didn't change. In the case of your 300 it surely has either the better OEM needle that the 300 carb comes with or maybe even a DJ setup. You probably need to open it up and see where you're starting from. And you've seen me mention this recently, I'd say that if you have 2 KLX's at this point, get a TM36 pumper to keep on at least one of them. I'll honestly admit that I didn't think the OEM CV carb was that limiting, but I was mistaken.
 
Old Dec 11, 2012 | 05:23 PM
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Thanks TNC. Yes, a TM36-68 is definitely in my future. I don't think I need the overall power gains of a 351. I do, however, like to loft the front on command. The price on a TM36 is not bad at $269 shipped. Also happy that it won't drop mileage because I commute on the KLX all summer. Need to get a rear rack for my gear. With the stock 300R gearing, even the CVK wheelies this bike easily enough, but I'll be gearing it to 13/42 or maybe 14/45 for a 50/50 mix - so the pumper carb will keep the front wheel up even with taller gearing.

In the meantime I will pull the stock carb and see what's in there. And, do the free/cheap mods. It's also leaking a little fuel out of the bowl drain tube even though the screw seems tight.

I could just play with the fuelscrew and find it's best position - so no problem. It's so easy without that crazy starter in the way.

Why no extra intake noise with the airbox lid removed? It was a huge deal on the 250S.
 
Old Dec 11, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Not sure what to say on the intake drone difference between the two bikes. Brewster may know more about the history of any valve/cam timing issues between the 300 and '06/'07 models. It could even be something simple like seat pan shape/design in relationship to the airbox opening, but I don't know. I guess I've had so many competition bikes over the years, that I've never found noise to be an issue on my KLX even with a fully modded airbox.

I was wondering if any others have found there to be a noise difference between the pumper carbs and CV carbs. Here's something I do remember. On the Kawasaki road bikes like the Z1 and others that came both with banks of 4 CV carbs or straight linkage cable-pull carbs, the CV carbs almost always produced a somewhat noisy, irritating racket when you installed those 4 individual K&N clamp-on filters. The bikes with the OEM straight-pull linkage slide design...no CV diaphragm...did not seem to yield that annoying level of racket. Just wondering.
 



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