Jetting issues: HELP!

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Old Jan 12, 2009 | 02:47 AM
  #11  
WestOzKLX's Avatar
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Same needle position but go #138 main jet. She'll be sweet.
 
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 03:15 AM
  #12  
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On the HMF site their recommendation for the pilot jet = 40. I tried a 38 and it helped but the fuel screw was turned out more than 3.5 - 3.75 and the instructions for the kouba FS2 screw said to go no more than 2.5 out or it might fall out. So I went to a 40 and its now out 1.25- 1.75. Anyone else out there w/ a 40 pilot to chime in (Aussie klxs come with bigger jets than usa klxs). My wife loves the bike more than ever with the new brass (used all dj 300 kit recommendations @ 0-50' asl).

With the stock pilot and 2 bros slip on, taking off it only made noise and was embarrassing. Now rejetted at least it takes off with some kind of power and the p3 insert helped give it some lowend.
 
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 09:00 AM
  #13  
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G'day all, i'm still learning as I go and am currently awaiting a pipe but my experience has been very interesting. I have a 2007 Oz spec bike, the carb mods have been done, airbox lid removed, de ice system removed and as I say, waiting for the pipe. I have had loads of problems with the uneven power, stalling at low revs, really making it quite difficult to ride. I have the adjustable needle, moved the clip up and down but it never really gave good smooth power right across the range. I remembered a post on ADVRIDER and it suggested using the stock needle in lieu of the adjustable with a spacer. I gave it a try this weekend, used the collar that is part of the carb mod and hey presto, I have no stalling, linear power and it's a different bike, I can slide out of slow corners with ease. The pipe will make a difference but the stock needle trick works a treat.
 
Old Jan 12, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #14  
WestOzKLX's Avatar
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Funny hey! That's exactly the needle set up I have. Stock N1RX needle raised with the brass collar you get for the N1TC needle. I'm running a #138 main and a #38 pilot too. Kouba FS3 fuel screw at 1.75 turns out. TwinAir filter and the backfire screen removed, no airbox lid. Two Brothers M7 pipe with the spark arrestor removed and the stock OE header with the welds on the inside ground back. NGK Iridium plug.
 
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 10:46 PM
  #15  
Lucky Intervale's Avatar
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G'day! And thanks for the input... don't suppose you'd have some part numbers for the 138 main and 38 pilot? Really appreciate the 411... I guess now it's try and try again until it works!
 
Old Jan 13, 2009 | 10:51 PM
  #16  
WestOzKLX's Avatar
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Kawasaki part # 92064-1119 (#38 Pilot)
Kawasaki part # 92063-1015 (#138 Main)

Too easy.
 
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 03:28 AM
  #17  
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I used the dj kit. absolutely NP with it running between 0-2500 ft. above that it pus-es out exponentially. Wild hare thought: if getting on the throttle and in turns seems to trigger it, did you goon up the floats so they may stick on occasion?
 
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