O.K. cool.I'll put the 132 in and see what top end is like.I do believe about fuel burning cleaner recently.It just made me nervous to ride her with that plug looking like it just came out of the box.I guess I'm not to concerned about color-but I don't want to burn it up either.As far as being lean from the start,I cant speak for all 250s,but mine hesitated on top end 2 months after I bought it-believe me man,it was starving a little.Hopefully I can take that snorkel back off with the bigger jet.Talk to you soon.

 

Put the 132 in this morning.Took the snorkel back off right away.Top end is WAY better.It does get blubbery once in awhile at 8.5 past 9.It's different this time though.It's like there's just a hair too much instead of not enough.It climbs to 80 effortlessly,she runs awesome.Like you said,don't read the plug color-there is none-it looks brand new yet.How about the mix screw,should I leave it at 3,or go in a quarter or something.Does the mix screw affect the entire power band?Just curious.Other than that it's ALMOST perfect,but not quite.

 

There are a number of "how to" on adjusting the mix screw. I adjust my idle up to around 2,000 rpm, then adjust the mix screw in and out to find the fastest idle, then turn it in about 1/4 turn (just lean of best idle), then adjust my idle back down to where I like it (around 1,300).

If you're less than 1 turn out, get a smaller pilot. More than 3 turns or so, get a larger pilot. It should ideally be between 1 and 3 turns out.

Since the mix screw affects only the pilot jet circuit, it's affect on performance is significant at idle, and less and less as the throttle is opened. I like the T-handle (Kouba) mix screws as they are so simple to adjust by hand.

 

Read the troubleshooting guide in the DJ instructions. If your experiencing backfiring on hard deceloration turn the screw out 1/4 turn till it goes away. If your not experiencing any backfiring turn it in until you do, then turn it out again.

I wanted maximum performance without regard for mpg, thats why a 40 pilot was in there.

 

Here's an article on stage 1 mods. Kinda old but still applies.

Stroker's KLX 300 Stage 1 Mods

"It has abrupt internal welds and its inlet face does not mate well with the exhaust port."

The header flange I.D. needs to match the exhaust port on the cylinder head.

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...erbomb-006-jpg

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...erbomb-013-jpg

Two pics of a modified stock header and FMF header, using the copper gasket as the I.D. guide.