Installed: Tusk D-Flex handguards on '09 KLX
OK guys and gals. As I promised, here is a VERY brief and general write-up on the install of the Tusk D-Flex handguards on my 2009 KLX-250S. They fit VERY well and the install is straight-forward. We tapped the holes in the barweights, which are welded to the bars and are fairly substantial. I would recommend this method versus removing the barweights since the weights are fairly secure. However you can grind down the welds, remove the weights, and use the spreaders if you’d prefer.
My dad (Danoman) did most of the work, really. Hopefully he’ll see this thread and chime in! He deserves all the props.
IMPORTANT NOTE: My kit came with a straight piece of metal for connecting on the inside of the bar, which might not be as easy to make fit. However, my dad had his brackets from his original kit (since he had to buy a big-bar adapter for his bike) and they have a pivot and slide in them for adjustability. We did the install with his bracketry. A bit more tweaking will be necessary without these style brackets!
Tools needed:
¼” Hand tap
Bolt x2
Spacers of some sort (not required, but recommended to move the guards out from the grip… keeps you from rubbing your hand and lets you keep more of the levers, bar, and grips.)
Threadlocker
Various sockets and screwdrivers

First you need to trim the throttle tube and the grip on the clutch side. Tap the hole in the barweights… the farther in, the better. To properly tap the thread you should only turn the tap one or two turns before removing and cleaning… this gives you cleaner threads and a better hole.


Here is a couple pics of the inner bracket. Not sure why my kit came with a straight bracket where as a lot of other people have mentioned the pivoting bracket.


This isn’t necessarily required but a nice touch. Pops added a bearing as a spacer between the grip and the guard to create some hand space as well as clean up the appearance.

The ball on the levers needs to be grinded down or off, depending on your personal taste. I like having a little bit for that one in a hundred time your hand might slip.

The brake cable bracket on the forktube needs to be taken off and bent to allow the cable to pass the bar without interference. This is how our cable is ran. We wrapped it in electrical tape since it does rub the handguard.

This is the finished product.


Yes, they do work. Sand on concrete + idiot me = broken in handguards. Glad we got them on, saved me a lever the first day they were on the bike, not to mention oh, my fingers.

If you have any questions please direct them my way. I have a lot more pics so if you’d like to see something else let me know.
My dad (Danoman) did most of the work, really. Hopefully he’ll see this thread and chime in! He deserves all the props.
IMPORTANT NOTE: My kit came with a straight piece of metal for connecting on the inside of the bar, which might not be as easy to make fit. However, my dad had his brackets from his original kit (since he had to buy a big-bar adapter for his bike) and they have a pivot and slide in them for adjustability. We did the install with his bracketry. A bit more tweaking will be necessary without these style brackets!
Tools needed:
¼” Hand tap
Bolt x2
Spacers of some sort (not required, but recommended to move the guards out from the grip… keeps you from rubbing your hand and lets you keep more of the levers, bar, and grips.)
Threadlocker
Various sockets and screwdrivers

First you need to trim the throttle tube and the grip on the clutch side. Tap the hole in the barweights… the farther in, the better. To properly tap the thread you should only turn the tap one or two turns before removing and cleaning… this gives you cleaner threads and a better hole.


Here is a couple pics of the inner bracket. Not sure why my kit came with a straight bracket where as a lot of other people have mentioned the pivoting bracket.


This isn’t necessarily required but a nice touch. Pops added a bearing as a spacer between the grip and the guard to create some hand space as well as clean up the appearance.

The ball on the levers needs to be grinded down or off, depending on your personal taste. I like having a little bit for that one in a hundred time your hand might slip.

The brake cable bracket on the forktube needs to be taken off and bent to allow the cable to pass the bar without interference. This is how our cable is ran. We wrapped it in electrical tape since it does rub the handguard.

This is the finished product.


Yes, they do work. Sand on concrete + idiot me = broken in handguards. Glad we got them on, saved me a lever the first day they were on the bike, not to mention oh, my fingers.

If you have any questions please direct them my way. I have a lot more pics so if you’d like to see something else let me know.
this is true- but having an '06 with them and utilizing them all of one time, I can honestly say that it did not have any effect on the functioning of the fork. This is probably why Kawi did away with them on the new bike. The new fork has new internals, so maybe this too is why they got deleted. I personally could care less either way, like I said, I couldn't tell a difference when I jacked up the bike and unscrewed that screw on my '06. My DRZSM didn't have them I don't believe and its suspension is head and shoulders better and more up to date than any KLX. I'm talking the SM version which is a much different bike than the other two versions. ie. higher-end componentry.
Mine give a reassuring "pssstt" after a hard ride. When the temp gets into the 40's (oC) I can feel the forks getting charged, they need a vent when they get that way.

Most off road bikes have this feature as the pressure that can build inside the forks affects performance.
Pic' is from a CRF.

Most off road bikes have this feature as the pressure that can build inside the forks affects performance.
Pic' is from a CRF.
Now I will say the fork makes a pfft noise every now and then when I lean on or off it every now and then... if that has anything to do with this.
good writeup with pics.
i've used mine a few times on my drz when i've dropped it accidently.
they've come in handy on my CR when I've glanced off a tree here and there going thru the woods.
haven't installed any on my klx yet though.
i've used mine a few times on my drz when i've dropped it accidently.
they've come in handy on my CR when I've glanced off a tree here and there going thru the woods.
haven't installed any on my klx yet though.




