Nice work. Your bike looks a bit like mine with the kicker and PMR racks. My only concern with the racks is they only mount at two places and flex a bit. I drilled out the mounting bosses and put a size larger screw in. They still flex but like you said we're just hanging bags over them and not suspending the weight on them. I also run the front cross strap of the bags under the seat so I don't have to sit on them.



Concerning the kicker I had a bunch of trouble starting mine with it till I figured out the technique. I have to cycle mine a few times till I get it just the right then boom!, away she goes! Most of the time anyway.

Part of the reason I chose the klx was because you can put a kicker on it. I think it really makes for a complete bike.

 

Nice job! And welcome to the forums.

 

The gear housing for my electric start system is damage at the inner engine casing. Thought it would be easier to install kick start to get around the problem. Has anyone tried a kickstarter kit for the EFI KLX 250?

Long story short, bike would bump start hot or cold (in 2nd gear) but almost impossible to kick start. Once in a blue moon may be. It almost feels like the gearing of the kick start does not turn the crank fast enough. Any thoughts?

 

There is history in here that indicates a kick start retrofit is usually a failure.
IMO, the KACR (automatic compression release) is the likely cause of non starting with a kick starter. There is deductive reasoning of known KACR characteristics behind my supposition. (KACR deactivation = instant starting,)
So, I would pull the cam cover, yank off the KACR spring - 30 minutes of labor - and THEN attempt a kick start..

If you are successful, then we have "put this baby to rest". Meaning that the kick start cannot rotate the engine fast enough, and long enough, to deactivate the KACR long enough to allow a startup...

 

Thank you Klxster for sharing. It is an interesting deduction and certainly worth a try. Shall have a go at the weekend and provide an update.

 

BTW, as the person that has to start everyone else's thumper - when they can't - It is absolutely imperative to position the piston correctly before a kick, not doing so guarantees failure.. Generally, you slow kick until you feel the resistance of the power stroke. Push a tiny, little, more with the kick starter in an attempt to position the piston at the top of the power stroke. Allow the kick starter to return to "up" so that you can get a full stroke out of it when you kick. If this is all done correctly, ONE, good, full stroke kick is all it takes ....

This is from many decades of kicking open class (500cc and up) racing bikes - and being labeled the "miracle man" for being able to start everyone else's bike in one kick.

 

Roger that to position the piston TDC.

Eagerly awaiting to remove the spring on the decompression mechanism.

This has been a fun project and steep learning curve, if sometimes frustrating having converted the bike from 249 to 331 and now back to 249.

Thank you Klxster.

 

Just a touch past TDC. Having owned a couple SR500 singles with the manual compression release I also have done this. With the manual release it's easier, Kicking up to TDC then pull the trigger and move it a shade more, just past the top, then kick. But I also started them every now and again doing what KLXter said, kicking up to TDC then easing it past. Never know when the manual release cable may fail. Do what was said and you should be good.

It's a shame they don't have a manual release. If the SR coughed and stalled at a light or a stop the cylinder would be full of exhaust, pull the trigger and kick over several times to clean it out, then do the routine. My SRs were usually one to two kicks though.

 

Thank you klx678.

i heard there is a window on the SR to indicate where TDC is? That would be a handy feature. I have only ever had electric start bikes. So will take practice to get a feel for getting the piston in the right place.

If this mod works, I will remove the stator in the starter motor to save some weight. It’s not doing anything now anyway except free spin if I press the start button. Still need the motor casing to plug the hole otherwise.

Lets see what happens tomorrow. Wish me luck.

 

Yes, there was, but I ignored it, too hard to see and besides after a short time it was virtually instinct, kick over until it hit compression, pull the trigger and I could feel the piston as it went over. The compression release just cracks the valve so it doesn't completely bleed off all compression, just makes it easier to move the piston. Wasn't worth trying to lean, look and move the kick start at the same time.

The deal with the window was it was a few degrees after TDC, but I could keep it closer so I got a bit more travel out of the kick start before it hit compression again to fire. The SR is just plain fun. Primitive feeling as heck with kick start and no frills like balancers and all. Only luxury it had for some reason was self cancelling turn signals, which really should be on every bike made, but isn't.