Install time Bill Blue 351 and pumper
#21
Milton's a long way from Ottawa, maybe a couple of buddy passes (brother worked for AC for 35 years) No problem walking ya thru it. Lots of good info & photos on here. Make sure you have good torque wrenches, ring compressor (or zip tie method), and feeler gauge for checking valves before you start. Lots of cleaning ahead of time, scraping base and keeping debris out of crank area is the most difficult. Make sure your at TDC before taking cams out and a manual is very helpful (or online freebie). Keep us informed, Frank,
Starting to collect stuff. I'm guessing a new gasket is in order also?
Tim
#22
the BB kit comes with the head and base gasket. That should be all you need unless you want a new crush washer for the exhaust.
For what it's worth I have a Harbor Freight torque wrench and we checked it against a calibrated Craftsman wrench and it was dead on.
Also be careful of the difference between inch and foot lbs!
For what it's worth I have a Harbor Freight torque wrench and we checked it against a calibrated Craftsman wrench and it was dead on.
Also be careful of the difference between inch and foot lbs!
#23
I understand the thinking. I submit that your straw will return diminishing results, at some point, as you increase the pressure differential..
Regardless, the idea that a 351 can be properly fueled because it draws more fuel from a 250 carb setup is armchair hydrodynamics/shade tree tuning..
I have found fantastic "new" power curves when the fueling is set to the correct AFR's .
The money and time invested in a 351/TM/Exhaust combo is significant and max power levels (return on the investment) are being left up to untested, unverified carb setups with everyone saying " It runs great"... Not an optimal situation..
Regardless, the idea that a 351 can be properly fueled because it draws more fuel from a 250 carb setup is armchair hydrodynamics/shade tree tuning..
I have found fantastic "new" power curves when the fueling is set to the correct AFR's .
The money and time invested in a 351/TM/Exhaust combo is significant and max power levels (return on the investment) are being left up to untested, unverified carb setups with everyone saying " It runs great"... Not an optimal situation..
#24
For what it's worth I think air speed in Bernoulli's principle relative to lift is squared. So, small changes in air speed at the venturi will result in a lot more vacuum.Thus, jetting down.
The point I am at now is all the power I want. The bike is going to break traction or wheelie. I simply cannot put down more power in my situation. So, while I am very probably leaving something on the table, I can't use it anyhow. New England is full of rocks and roots and hills. It's not about HP so much is about usable.
My friend who ice races his KLX is looking for more top end power and more power overall but I am not. All of my throttle position would be covered by the curve of a dyno run. I ride under my available torque curve at all times.
The horsepower and torque race at some point become theoretical to me. The available torque at RPM exceed my ability to use them I cease to care. In some ways the stock KLX was easier to ride, because whiskey throttle had less consequence and everything was so manageable. The worse kinds of crashes for me is when the bike runs away and I go along for the ride.
My ROI (return on investment) in the engine now don't matter. So, I turned to suspension. Now, I think, pro revalved at both ends I am done with that. If I could have another 10 HP for $20 I wouldn't take it.
The bike will do exactly what I want. Probably next up is Tubliss tires.
I watched with great interest your tuning thread with MCM and DJ. Great stuff.
Last edited by taxonomy; 10-01-2015 at 04:10 PM.