With the slip on, stage 2, and lid off at your elevation, temps and humidity, you should notice a healthy increase in felt power and throttle response over stock. So.. I'm lost...

 

True on the running rich, I'm going to try the KDX snorkle and then see if there is a place to get my junk run on the dyno. I'd be curious to see how rich or lean its running under load. My goal is to be just right or a hair of a pinch on the lean side so if I go up in the high elevations it will fatten up a bit but not to much. I just don't want to be rejetting all the damn time. I've been from sea level up to 7,500 feet with it (stock) and its always ran great. Works for me. Also the slip on is growing on me a bit. I'm pretty sure the most beneficial part was rejetting the bike from stock. I have been getting a little lift off on the front end when I aggressively leave the stop light...not sure if it did gain a little drive ability or grunt, or now that I can hear the rpms perfectly I can get out of the hole just right. Maybe I'm just annoyed I spent 350 bucks on everything and expected more but the true test will be my dirt ride in a week and a half.

 

At 500ft ASL, in 99f air, DJ stage 2 with #128 jet, airbox lid removed, my dyno run showed 14.7 to 1 AFR. That is too lean for max power but the bike ran fine. Your air is more dense, therefore, your bike should be even more lean than mine was.

I have no idea how to jet for an airbox lid and/or snorkle. It seems logical that lids and snorkles would limit airflow compared to "no lid", therefore, require less fuel - meaning smaller main jet selections.

 

Perhaps my bike is about the same as yours with my denser air but my factory lid/snorkle installed? My bike does pop on decel but its not a lot and its not back firing type pops...its just that engine braking gurgle pop. I don't know how to explain it. Perhaps I'm still a pinch lean but I don't think I'm terribly lean. I could always try the next size and see what happens. The low end seems to be less boggy but I won't be able to really tell until I get it in the dirt where traction varies a lot and I'll really push it through various RPMs.

I tried to catch a video of my exhaust but I'll have to try at another location thats not next to a freeway.

Whats that popular mixture needle people install? I might get one.

Anyone run a FMF Megabomb header? I spoke to FMF and they said thats the one to get if I want more low to mid end grunt...supposedly it might quiet up the bike a pinch too. I don't think it should hurt the top end at all...correct? I ride my bike some what hard even around town but I don't really scream it past 9k unless I'm trying to squeezing every MPH out of it when trying to get on the highway.

 

Oh, ok, You have the lid and snorkle on.. Tell your dad I said it's ok to run the bike without the lid. Then make sure the DJ kit is installed exactly as the instructions say - using the 128 or the 132 jet - plug/deactivate the air injection system, with stealth cause your in Kalifornia, to get rid of the decel pops. Now enjoy the extra horsepower. Whether you feel it or not, it's there.

 

I might try another size jet but I don't want to run with the lid off, I don't want the extra noise. I've owned way to many modded vehicles over the years and just want to keep the bike some what simple. I did notice my bike cut out for a second or two when I was riding in the hills again. It did it to me about 4 or 5 times since I bought the bike new. Its got 2,800 miles on it now so obviously this rarely happens. I'm going to check the float level to make sure thats correct. It feels like fuel starvation. I can't imagine what else it is seeing how it did it before and after I did the carb mods.

 

Oh yeah.. That horrible intake racket these bikes make until you retime the cams... Hey, retime just the intake cam - should take 30 minutes to complete... Then HANG ON !

 

I guess I can read up on it but since you brought it up give me the cliff note version. Why the racket and how "off" could the timing be?

 

I take it your referring to the Marcelino cam mod, I just read some of the sticky. I don't doubt that it works. I wonder why it is off or different from the factory. I'm a mechanic for a living and see some retarded stuff engineers do but they aren't morons either. I wonder why they did the cam timing the way it is.

 

All engineering projects are given parameters to work within. Take motorcycle engines - parameters for off road only bikes put performance near the top - hence huge power in small , light, packages that can be stuffed into light frames. Parameters for street legal engines involve emissions restrictions, insurance company pressures, reliability issues, etc etc - and produce engines like ours. Engineers are a sneaky bunch though. They quite often leave behind "backdoors" in the mechanicals that easily unlock the potential that they had to take away in order to meet a parameter of the project. The real trick is to find these "backdoors". Marcelino found one. The cams on the newer bikes are timed for emissions instead of power production. However the cam sprockets are designed in such a way as to offer an easy way to retime the cams for power and torque.
I thought the undersized exhaust header flange was another "engineering backdoor" to easily recoverable horsepower - but I'm not so sure, now that I've done it. It did not seem to radically change the power delivery or the AFR. While I am sure it helps with upper RPM power, I expected more considering the large amount of metal that I removed from the inside of the pipe.