A must have tool for any KLX: http://www.ultimatearticleauthority....ne-Heaters.jpg

 

With the intake pointed up I have leaks from both larger valves. I can visually see the stuff coming out. Can they be seated poorly if there is carbon build up or does that not matter? Ahhh, when will it end? So, I guess I need to check the exhaust valves as well and make sure they are not also fudged up. Do I only need to replace the valve only or any of the other stuff too, like the seats, springs, etc. Like I have told others, by the time I get done this will be one of the most expensive KLX's ever.

 

And since I get to replace the valves are there better aftermarket valves or is there really nothing that can be improved on as far as that is concerned?

 

Call the place you got the kit from and tell them what happened. If they're any kind of shop at all, they'll help you. The liquid should not get past the valves. The valves should be put in a valve grinding machine, and checked to see if they can be re-cut or if they need replaced. If you cut a valve, it "sinks" deeper into the head. This causes the valve stem to be higher. Sometimes you have to "tip" the valve (shorten the stem). Also the valve seat should be checked, and more than likely re-cut as well. That also will sink the valve into the head. You are way past backyard mechanic at this point. It's time to send the head out to a good machine shop. Not joes auto down the street! Good news is it looks like the damage in minimal, it's FN cold, and you have time. You may need a few valves. A little labor and you're back together. You're wasting anymore time if you continue. It's time to send the head out for repair. Should cost no more than a couple hundred bucks. MAX! Get new gaskets ordered so when it comes back you're ready to install it.

Might take a while and I might miss your next thread so here's my e mail: TS@RiversTotalCarCare.com

PS: Send the cams with the head! Ask them what else they might want.

Guess I have to wait a while on that ride

 

The valves are stock. I did take the head to a machine shop so they could check and make sure it was to spec's. They removed the valves and reshimmed them. So maybe they didn't do the job right, but then you guys are also telling me that the valves could be bent, is that correct? Seems like it would be cheaper and easier to simply replace the valves and have new ones put in. Just making sure I am hearing you straight.

 

Question: You had the cams out of the head when you did the liquid test correct?

"I did take the head to a machine shop so they could check and make sure it was to spec's. They removed the valves and reshimmed them.

You mean they adjusted the "valve clearance". That is the clearance between the valve tip and the cam.

"So maybe they didn't do the job right"

Maybe. A valve should have clearance between the tip and the cam. Otherwise the cam holds that valve slightly open, thus causing the liquid to come past the valve. If you have the cams removed, then that is not an issue.

"but then you guys are also telling me that the valves could be bent, is that correct?

Yes. That's why we asked you to do the test.

Seems like it would be cheaper and easier to simply replace the valves and have new ones put in.

Key word "HAVE". New valves should be ground and fitted to the head by a qualified machine shop. They are not just a replacement part right out of the box.

IF YOU HAD THE CAMS IN DURING THE LIQUID TEST WE NEED TO DO IT AGAIN WITH THE CAMS REMOVED.

 

youtube:

"valve job"

"valve grind"

"3 angle valve"

"valve seat"

 

Don't forget to order the temp sender!

 

Yes, they checked the valve clearance, my bad. And yes, the cams were off the head when I did the test. And bummer that new valves don't just fit right into place. Now I know and see how this isn't a simple or cheap process.

 

Yes, of course, but at $80 it's a freaking rip off.

And any ideas on reasonably priced aftermarket valves?