How to adjust idle mix screw while carbs on the bike

Old Feb 25, 2016 | 11:03 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HypnoFrogs
or possible valve problem? I dont think the valve shims have ever been done and its on 22k KMs.

Looks like im riding the pedal bike tomorrow haha
If that's true, time to check the valves and shim if needed.

The DynoJet kit doesn't include any pilot jets, but the PO may, or not, have changed the pilot when in there.

If it idled fine before but now doesn't and nothing else has changed, I would tend to think the carb needs cleaning and/or get on those valves. How's the air filter? Fresh fuel?
 
Old Feb 26, 2016 | 04:41 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
If that's true, time to check the valves and shim if needed.

The DynoJet kit doesn't include any pilot jets, but the PO may, or not, have changed the pilot when in there.

If it idled fine before but now doesn't and nothing else has changed, I would tend to think the carb needs cleaning and/or get on those valves. How's the air filter? Fresh fuel?
Thanks for the suggestions, I will have to look at the filter tomorrow, fresh fuel yes, I run through a tank a week usually as its my main transport. I will have to clean the carb and do the valves in 3 weeks or so. no time at the moment haha. Do you think 3 weeks could potentially kill my engine or should it be okay?.. I could just take it to the mechanic but they quoted me 200 bucks for a valve adjustment (I have done a valve adjustment on a honda ruckus, there cant be much difference, so I shouldent have a problem.
 
Old Feb 26, 2016 | 05:33 AM
  #23  
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EDIT: I only read the first few posts then wrote this reply. Then I went back and read the others and that you fixed your clutch issue. Ok, My bad, so nevermind....LOL I left it instead of deleting incase this helps someone in the future....

Mine doesn't adjust at the end of cable at the bracket on engine. At the lever perch and in the middle (ish) of the cable right infront of radiator. Either my cable is aftermarket, or yours. Either way, there are 2 places to adjust the clutch cable. Make sure you have free play in the lever. If it's dragging like you say, you need to adjust it for more pull. But like I said, make sure you still have just a little free play. Doesn't need to be much, just make sure there's no tention on the cable when not being used. A worn clutch will slip, and have the opposite affect then what you have. This is very rare, but I've seen some oils cause this when engine was still cold. Unlikely, but what oil and weight are you using?
 

Last edited by Werloc; Feb 26, 2016 at 05:46 AM.
Old Feb 26, 2016 | 05:40 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Werloc
Mine doesn't adjust at the end of cable at the bracket on engine. At the lever perch and in the middle (ish) of the cable right infront of radiator. Either my cable is aftermarket, or yours. Either way, there are 2 places to adjust the clutch cable. Make sure you have free play in the lever. If it's dragging like you say, you need to adjust it for more pull. But like I said, make sure you still have just a little free play. Doesn't need to be much, just make sure there's no tention on the cable when not being used. A worn clutch will slip, and have the opposite affect then what you have. This is very rare, but I've seen some oils cause this when engine was still cold. Unlikely, but what oil and weight are you using?
Yeah thank you, my clutch cable had an adjuster just infront of the rad to, I tightened it until I just took up all the slack of the cable with the adjuster on my handle bar out a tiny bit, and then just adjusted the handbar to an 1/8th inch play. It shifts way different now.

I used to have to pull the clutch in 3/4 to the handle bars. now I only need to pull the clutch in maybbeee 1/4 of the way, which is great because i can clutch with 2 fingers now because there is room behind the lever for my other 2 haha
 
Old Feb 26, 2016 | 03:10 PM
  #25  
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I doubt 3 weeks will make a difference, but no promises!

Tight valves often cause difficult starting. I don't think you've mentioned that, have you?

Adjusting isn't too difficult. There are good threads here. Check the FAQs (link in my sig line). I don't know how they compare to the Ruckus, but maybe read up on them first. You'll need a good set of feeler gauges and shims if adjustment is needed. Find a source for shims before hand if time is critical. If your bike is an '09, expect that the valve cover gasket may try to shrink and be difficult to re-install.
 
Old Feb 26, 2016 | 03:13 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by HypnoFrogs
Thanks for the suggestions, I will have to look at the filter tomorrow, fresh fuel yes, I run through a tank a week usually as its my main transport. I will have to clean the carb and do the valves in 3 weeks or so. no time at the moment haha. Do you think 3 weeks could potentially kill my engine or should it be okay?.. I could just take it to the mechanic but they quoted me 200 bucks for a valve adjustment (I have done a valve adjustment on a honda ruckus, there cant be much difference, so I shouldent have a problem.
They are a little different. The KLX doesn’t have rocker arms and you have to remove the cams to replace the shims. The ruckus does have shims but they are much easier to replace than the KLX.
 
Old Feb 29, 2016 | 11:35 PM
  #27  
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So I went to go to a tour on friday after adjusting my idle and my bike sputtered and pulsed and died on the way there, wouldetn start, was weird. soo. I decided to play with my idle some more, got it idling great but thought maybe it was still wrong.

took it to the shop and got it back just now, they didnt even touch the idle they said it was great now. So I payed 50 bucks for a half hours work of them checking the idle, they cleaned my chain and oiled it, they cleaned my air filter, and also it looks like they changed my front brake fluid as it was colourdish and now it is clear and fuller than it was, money well spent haha
 
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