Well as stated in my other post I've finished the carb mods etc. (125 main, 40 pilot, N1TC needle, drilled slide, drilled crankcase vent, KLX250D open exhaust with 3/4" baffle plate, KDX high flow snorkel). After talking with Deej for a bit I decided to take a test spin with the airbox cover off. Holy Crap! Talk about low end snap! Running in the hardpack and wet sand from a recent rain first gear no clutch, even from idle, would instantly break the rear tire loose and there was no hesitation it went from putt putt to full on BRRRAAAAAAAP in no time, as fast as I could crank the throttle. There is definitely more air in as there is a heckuva lot more out. running the same baffle as I had been it was almost as loud as with the exhaust fully open to 1.3 inches. I think though with the 125 main its just a hair lean to run it with the lid off as running up through the gears on the road after around 8000-8250, just before I shifted I felt it decelerate just slightly. Is that a sign of being too lean? Also, on the good hardpack where I could get traction first gear around 3500 rpm, cracking the throttle and a small jerk on the bars had the front tire up a good 18-24 inches.

So now I'm wondering do I ditch the stock air filter in favor of a Uni as someone else stated similar results with just going to the Uni and still keeping the airbox lid, AFAIK anyway?

Or do I keep the stock filter and run dual snorkels? I know I saw it posted somewhere I'm just not sure how they got them both to fit or how well it ended up working out.

Or do I get some filtered circle vents for the airbox lid?

What to do what to do?

 

I know what you mean! I opened up my exhaust and took the snorkel off which helped a bunch over stock. but it wasn't until I took the air box lid off that i got a hint that I would have to re-jet. I'm at 6000 ft and my airbox lid is going to stay off. I'm even thinking of drilling a few holes in the airbox to draw in some cooler air instead of hot air from under the seat. Up here we need every cc of air we can get. I don't think it will bother anything as long as they are upstream of the air filter. I would rather have an engine that runs great for awhile than one that runs crappy and lasts forever!

 

Ok guys, since you haven't been here for all the post I have a little glitch for you. This probably won't affect most. Carb icing. Ya I know it's summer, but I ride all year round. In cold fog/rain this little beast will ice up. Scat can back me up on this. The only noticeable cure is to have the high flow snorkel in, turned back-wards. I tried w/o lid, w/o snorkel, stock and that cold wet air will shut you down under 4000 RPM. Just an FYI.

 

I know all about carb icing..... I'm a pilot. and carb icing has nothing to do with outside air temp. but everything to do with humidity and dew point. Like I said I'm at 6000 feet in southeastern WY where the humidity is lucky to get to 25%. No icing problems here.

 

Even with 95% humidity, I've never experienced any icing here!

Okay, now what's the "other" catch with removing the airbox cover - we all know there has to be one! Perhaps a fire hazard is there if the bike backfires! I don't think I need that kind of "seat warmer" here in Florida.

I also need to get cracking on the PCV mod. On my KLR, the bike just revs so freely now you have to be very careful not to over-rev it! I'm hoping to get rid of the slight vibrations I'm feeling over 8000 rpms. More to follow.