I sent it back to Bill and he was able to clean up the surface by honing the bore-I was amazed it cleaned up and still was in spec. I do remember that Bill mentioned that he had a couple of oversized piston kits if the bore got chewed up.

 

That's good and ya know even if the bore is a .001 or .002 bigger now it's not necessarily a bad thing with a forged piston.

 

Well more bad news. I'm kinda done with the bike for now. I don't think there is anymore reason for cracking the case and trying to fix the bearing.
I am at a loss with the bike. The teeth on the crankshaft for the cam chain have all broken broken off except 2(look for picture). So between the hole in the crankcase, the bad bearing and possibly the balancer, the big bore cylinder and piston with damage and now the crankshaft gears being all broken off for the cam chain.
The motor is pretty much toast.

Picture of crankshaft gear for cam chain.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tu19df5o8q...icsay.jpg?dl=0

So let know what y'all think about everything.
And any reason for why this had to happen to me? Lol

 

Was it burning oil? If not much, I would just get a new bottom end and install the 350 cylinder/piston on it.

 

Can't say I've ever seen anything like that occurring on the KLX. Makes one wonder what the first domino was that fell causing all your issues. I got nothing. Maybe a complete inspection inside the cases would shed some light on it. Is there a reason you haven't opened it up further?

Yeah, at this point you're probably ultimately better off finding a replacement bottom end, but if it were me I'd still want to know what started this fubar.

 

I don't have a flywheel puller(not sure if the flywheel has to be removed. But its in the manual). Even if i opened it up I'm not sure if it would be possible to figure out what went first. The bearing or the teeth on the crankshaft or something else on the inside of the crankcase. I would like to see the inside too but don't think i want to spend the money on a puller unless there is a cheaper and easy way of doing so. As of now im thinking i might be better off trying to part my bike out and save for a new bike or new to me bike than putting more money into this bike. Not sure tho. I'm gonna hang onto it for now but still not sure what I'll end up doing.

Do you need to remove the flywheel to open the case?

 

Yes, the flywheel has to be removed. If I remember, the rear axle has the correct threads and I used that as the puller. Guaranteed that you have metal particles throughout the engine-it will be more economical to find a replacement engine.

 

Yes, I used the rear axle bolt..

 

There is a complete lower end on ebay that supposedly has 10k miles on? And claims to be in working order? Price is at alil under $400 shipped.
or
Is this a bad idea or way to expensive something like this? Should i wait for a better deal or something with less miles?
I don't think i wanna put to much into it. But if i could get another year or 2 outta the bike then i would be happy for $400. But I'm concerned this lower end will let me down and I'll be out $400.

 

Problems like yours with the lower end are very, very rare. The few that I've heard of started when the idler gear got sloppy on its shaft and collided with the teeth on the clutch hub. Get your cylinder and piston measured to make sure that they are within spec. $400 in one chunk seems like a lot but when looked at over the two years or so you plan to use the bike, it's just a little over $ .50 a day.

Ride on
Brewster