I must admit when i was doing my 351cc kit, it felt like I was going to crack something as well on one of those M6 12Nm bolts as the bolt kept turning but wouldn’t reach the correct torque.

The other one was fine and reached the correct torque quite easily as did the 4 x main head bolts. I think I ended up just putting slightly less torque on that one as it doesn’t affect combustion. By memory I was able to get about around 10Nm on the one I was having trouble with and then I just nipped it up a smidge more. I would say that those to bolts are really just there to keep tension on the gasket to prevent oil leakage from the cam chain.

Dunno why but it’s possibly something to do with the softness of the materials.

I also have trouble with the 2 x top bolts on right hand side triple clamp. They always seem to keep tightening and I can never get the full recommended torque on that side, I have broken one bolt because it juts keeps tightening with-out tripping the torque wench. Because im scared im going to break something serious I end up just setting the Nm's slightly lower on that side and giving it a slight nip by feel. No problems on the other side though which is weird.

Have had my wrench calibrated a couple of times and its all good.

 

I bought my complete head off of a ebay seller for $350 I believe after I blew my first head up (presuming that it's because of some torque spec mishaps). The head that I bought came with cams, valves, etc. It was a complete head from a wrecked 2009 klx 250 that had cracked the bottom end. I got a damn good deal. After getting the head, I sent the entire assembly along with my old cams and the cams that came with the head to Bill Blue to have him make sure that everything was in spec. Great decision as I basically have a completely new bike now. My bottom end was also completely rebuilt.

Anyways, another example of our soft heads and the need to make sure that you are using a torque wrench correctly for everything. (Not saying that you weren't)

 

There is a complete engine on here for 800 bucks!! whole bike for 1500
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...38/#post472662

 

Hmmm... it is first time that it happens to me. I am very careful with these things and ever have had anything similar fixing bikes for 10 years. I must admit it is the first "modern" bike in my possession. HD or opposites are very old and bulletproof technology. Reading your stories making me think that something is wrong here. I found the place to weld the head. However what to do to prevent that this thing happens again? I am afraid that undertighting is not good idea but following specs would lead to the same problem. Ideas?

 

Head and cams are not sold as assemblies. You can get a new head and use your old cams.

 

It might be worth talking to someone (dealer service, Kawi repair shop) that has a lot of experience on these. There may be some hidden wisdom out there.

Or maybe you already head hairline cracks in the metal...

 

I find it strange that the manual tells us to lube the cam cap bolts with Molybdenum Disulfide oil and apply MD grease to the M10 head bolts but nothing to the M6 bolts Nothing worse then torquing long bolts in aluminium; they just wanna keep on yielding or worse they grab.

What is the range of your torque wrench (min/max)?

 

Its Snapon 6 - 120 Nm range, 2% error.

Guys from our workshop said that they gonna weld it. I was stripping it off for an hour today. Taking out valves and seals is quite tricky. It should be quite hard without special tools. Fortunately its not my first time and I have all of them. I cant understand why newer is bike more difficult to work on it.

 

Dang!!!!! almost looks like too long a bolt was used. That sucks man.

 

where are you located i have an extra head