The reason I say that it looks like the bolt was too long is that you can see some of the material being forced up. That is weird though. Sorry to hear about that. I can only imagine how frustrating that would be. Let us know what happens.

 

Down under - Australia, Canberra

 

Frustrating... I cant explain my feelings - maybe I was surprised. I know that presence of oil reduces nominal torque by 10-20%. However if you look at the table - M6 screw with oil should be exactly 12Nm. Looking at manual - it says 12Nm. No surprises. So far so good.... you tight it and... you see the cracked screw seat. Whom to blame? (I mean besides myself). Wrench out of specs? Idiots who wrote the manual? I will check my wrench tonight against other wrench of my mate as a first step. By the way, valve spring seats still in the head even after night of soaking them in degreaser... oil is so sticky that doesnt allow me to extract them without using pliers. Interesting....

 

Use this product:
Alumaloy home
remember that where you are torquing is not doing anything but sealing an oil passage not under pressure.
This product will work for what you need. I have used it and it is great for low temperature repairs.

 

Thanks! Will keep in mind. At the moment pros decided to help me welding this crack. However they warned that space is limited and it is difficult to do the job properly. No space to put the torch. Will see. I hope that could get a spare head as well....

 

checked my torque wrench last night, it is OK. Huhh... now - excess of fresh oil that reduced dramatically nominal torque?

 

If changing the compression ratio via the 351 big bore doesn't change torque values, I doubt that an excess of fresh oil would either.

 

 

 

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