So Ok. cleaned out the ports, nothing seemed clogged changed to a main jet 122 just to try it out. Took out the spark plug, it was all black. Cleaned it up and checked the gap. It's right in the range it's suppose to be. Looked at the slide moving under a cracked idle and it seems to be moving smoothly. Checked the float level with a tube. When I opened the drain it would be just below where the carb body meets the bowl but when I would angle the bike left and right it would equalize out to be just a I've where the bowl meets. I think that's right?

Drive it around and it will lug around at lower rpms and make it out of the 3-4k range but if its bogging at all and I am to engage the clutch it won't return to the idle it just dies. Took it on some trails today and its dieing all over the place because if I'm trying to feather the clutch it bogs. I think I am too rich in the low range but main and pilot jetting seem to have little effect. I feel it has to be the needle since its having the most effect on the symptom. The aftermarket needle I believe is too rich since it seemed best at the leanest setting. I now have the stock needle on the leanest setting and I still feel rich. How else can I get any leaner? Open the exhaust? What's next to check?

 

The bike was used with 5 miles hence the no warranty. It wasn't sitting at the dealership it was sitting in someone's house and was recently sold to the dealership. They charged me some obscene amount for a "125 pt inspection" where I kinda assumed all this was gone through. Afterwards I feel that they couldn't have even really driven it if it had 5 miles. The dealership was at sea level and the guy who drove it out to me said it wants to flood easily. It wasn't nearly this bad though I feel and I figured that I would be to messing with it for elevation change but this is just not right.

 

When you say you "cleaned out the ports", could you explain exactly what circuits of the carb you're referring to and how you cleaned them?

 

That mechanic never cleaned the carb? That is ridiculus, I would never go back there.
If the carb is cleaned and working properly, the problem is the low speed circuit which would be the pilot jet.
Are you adjusting the pilot screw? That will effect this system greatly.
Is the pilot jet on the stock carb an air jet or gas jet? That is where your too rich, if it is an air jet put a 40 in, if it is a gas jet, put a 35 in.
Good luck.

 

Mine ran great out of the box, with no jetting changes. The lowest elevation I can reach here is 4,700, and I know I took it to over 8,000 without any issues, before I changed exhaust and jetting.

Having said that; I highly doubt elevation is the problem.

 

I'm not sure if you're aware, but Kehein (stock) and Dynojet jets are not the same. For example, a Dynojet 122 flows like a Kehein 130. When I was in Colorado with my stock '09, I had to drop from a Kehein 120 to a 115 (Dynojet 110) because the bike wouldn't run above 12k'.





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Your carb is still dirty, it will make jetting impossable. If you want it leaner pull your air box lid as you have to take the whole exhaust off to lean it as much as an open airbox

 

So i got a message back from Michael Cory at dynojet research saying.
"The jet kit for the KLX300 will not work in your KLX250sf. You must use jet kit 2182."

I also talked to a local guy in my area who grew up racing in the area. he said that i am not getting enough air at the low end. Saying its all in the needle, recommended a longer needle.

Hope the needle in the klx250sf jet kit 2182 is longer. Otherwise i am out of ideas. and money.

I have tried different pilot jets Durielk. the 35 is the stock and I've tried a 38 as well. nearly no noticeable difference. I do believe it is a gas jet.

 

Those of us who have been using the KLX300 DJ for years in our KLX250 with stock bore and with big bore kits will be very disappointed to find out they are not working now...LOL! Total rubbish. Now, to clarify, are you sure he said it won't work or that it's not the recommended version? The 300 DJ kit will work in just about any KLX that I'm aware of. Maybe the 2182 kit is more emissions friendly or something. I just don't think there are enough design and mechanical differences between any S model and SF model to cause the 300 DJ kit to be inoperative. If the 2182 kit is more emissions friendly, then that tells me right there that I don't want it because it's going to be a performance compromise compare to the 300 kit. I love the 300 kit in my OEM carb...before I went to a 36mm pumper.

 

I have the fmf power up kit for the 300 not the DJ kit. My "mechanic" told me it is basically the same. "Not recommended" and "will not work" I assume are the same thing coming from the DJ main rep. While I agree the 300 needle probably enhances performance, the problem I'm having with it is a low end flooding/bogging. So I'm hoping the less fuel needle may work for my 8000+ elevation with stock exhaust. And if it doesn't work I'm back to square 1 and am going to have to go back to a mechanic and pay the big bucks