So I installed the wiring that came with my Gerbings insoles. It's a fused wiring harness you add on the battery. I plug straight into it. No switch, always on when plugged in.
They work great but I keep blowing a fuse. Today I think I heard it pop when I plugged in and it definitely didn't work after that.
This is the second time it blew. The first time I had used the 2amp fuse as recommended for one piece of gear, the insoles are 7W(I think). It blew after some wet riding. No big deal, I replaced it with 5 amp fuse(the kit came with every fuse up to 20amps) and put some dielectric grease in there to prevent moisture problems(the battery terminals are already well coated).
Do I need to add a switch inline, so I can turn it off, plug in, then turn it on?
This is the only extra load on my battery. No other blown fuses. I often plug and unplug while riding because they can get hot, so a switch would be nice. Is that a no-no?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Contact Gerbing? Maybe there is a short. 2A fuse should not blow if the insoles are 7W.
Putting a switch should not be a problem. The ultimate would be a current chopper module to provide heat control, turns it off and on for you. Longer on = more heat. Does Gerbing sell a controler?

 

your amps for the heater calculate to around .5 of an amp
so 2 amp is the largest you probably want to go with the fuses

unless the actual wire gauge of the heater is the correct size for anything larger I wouldnt go with a bigger fuse

last thing you want is the wiring to start to catch fire


definitely a short in the wiring somewhere

 

The fuse protects the wires. Don't go too big on the fuse or you'll melt the wires if there is a short. There web site spec are:
Heat Microwire® heat technology
Source 12-volts DC
Current 1.2 amps/pair
Watts 15 watts

You shouldn't be blowing a 2A fuse unless you put a long extension on it or used small gauge wire. They come with a life time warranty, so I'd give them a call.

 

Called Gerbings, I was the 7th caller in line, waited on hold 10 minutes before I had to go back to work. Called later, it was busy over a 30 minute period. Oh right, Christmas. Seems I'll have cold feet for a few days or weeks.
And I have some more electrical issues to investigate. I stopped this morning on the way to work to use the built in hand/glove warmer - the tailpipe - and noticed my tail light (Edge light) was running at 1/3 brightness. Hit the rear brake and it lit up to normal brake brightness. Hit the front and nothing - one of the plugs on the switch came off. Put that back on, front worked, tail light still dim.
Going to ride her inside and strip her down and do some cleaning and inspecting.
Hoping it's just a dirty connection.

 

stupid question but are you expecting the brake light to run at 100% all the time

what you describe sounds perfectly normal, running lights 1/3%
then apply brake and it goes to 100%

or am I missing something

 

I mean it's at 1/3 of what it should be when just on, very dim. When I hit a brake switch the light goes to full bright, like it should. I'd say normal brightness was 50% of full bright. Now it's not even close.

 

So I went to take a picture of it in the dark. Which came out. As I was taking it, I was thinking,"See how dim it is....whoa, and how dim my headlight is?" The wiring harness must be bad. I need to tear it off now, before my battery dies. Pics later. Off to find the headlamp and tools.

 

look at battery voltage
and frame grounds too

 

So....
I have two wiring harness pieces added. One for a trickle charger(I think called SAE - male and female prong) and a coax Gerbing for the heated insoles. Looking into whether or not, I needed a switch or controller between the insoles and the harness, the answer is no, as far as I can tell. I also learned there is a coax to SAE(what I'm calling it) cable that allows you to use the Gerbing harness to charge the battery, so the SAE harness comes off. It has also never been used or had a fuse in it.
I think the reason the fuse was blowing was that the little waterproof fuse box keeps popping open. At least it was open last time I popped the cover off to remove the fuse.
Once I remove the other harness, which is underneath the Gerbing, I'll replace the fuse and zip-tie it shut. Hope that fixes it.
I don't think the insoles are damaged or defective. They show the same readings with an ohm meter, as does the piece between them and the harness. I will check the harness when I take it off. I suspect it was just the fuses getting wet.
Now on to a more serious subject...
My lack of tail light function might be related to this...

Given the past week of riding through snow and salt and sand, I thought I'd better investigate further, finding this inside the waterproof(not anymore) housing.

So I ought to at least try and clean it, see if it works still. But with what?
I'm thinking alcohol?
If I can't get it to work then I'll put the stock light back on, but I'll have to connect it redneck style(twist lock and electrical tape), until I get to town for worthy electrical connectors. I had to cut the plug off the harness to wire up the Edge originally and the connectors don't match the stock plug.
And Maximus wondering when I'm getting the bike out of his way, so he can get to work on getting the treat out of his Kong. Best leave your bored dog home alone toy ever. The little one, between him and the bike, he brought home one day, he's part hound dog, he finds all sorts of things. Most are not too pleasant.