Hard to start when cold?

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  #21  
Old 05-17-2010, 01:50 PM
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Hard to tell carb parts on the diagram, don't give a bottom up view like this pic.

Is TNC drilling the circled port, to the right of the main jet in this photo?

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  #22  
Old 05-17-2010, 02:36 PM
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How long was the bike sitting before you tried to start it. There is a fix, or at least a work around that I have tested with 100% success on 3 different bikes for 4 and a half years, besides lots of other guys that have tried it and it works every time. But every time I post it, someone comes on here and says that we shouldn't have to go through the "process" We that's fine, but if it works, why question it anymore? Just saying.
 
  #23  
Old 05-17-2010, 03:02 PM
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Kamp, yes, that's the starter jet. deej, I don't understand why some would be scared to drill the starter jet. With the jet drilled out to .020", you can leave the fuel tap on or off, leave the bike sitting for long periods, and basically treat the KLX like you do your car. When you walk out to your bike, you pull the choke and hit the button, and the bike will start like it should. While it might work to run the gas out of the bowl...or drain the bowl at the drain screw...or click your heels together and say, "There's no place like home"...why not fix the problem?

The issue of upping the pilot size or using the fuel screw to richen the mixture to aid in starting?...yes, that can help. But why screw up ideal jetting to aid in cold starting? You'll be running richer "all" the time, and if you go to Colorado or other high altitude location, it will be richer than you probably want at idle and just off closed throttle position. The starter jet circuit only operates when you pull the choke **** open. Otherwise it's completely closed during normal operation.

Kamp, if you've never drilled jets with these small bits, be aware that you don't use a drill motor. You use a little hand held bit holder that spins in your hand...like from an Exacto kit or such...see pic. I drilled mine out to .022", and I think .020" is more ideal. My bike fires in a millisecond now, but I can only leave the choke on for about 5 seconds or so before it burbles noticeably. A little goes a long way here, so don't go crazy. Do the .020" drill size first, as it's probably the perfect size here. My KLX had this annoying cold start issue even with a richer DJ needle and other engine mods. It starts perfectly now. On the morning it snowed during my recent Moab trip at about 25 degrees in the La Sal mountains, I started the bike on the trailer just to see how much my cold starting had improved since drilling the starter jet. It fired just like if it had been 75 degrees. This is the ultimate fix for this little cold natured beast.
 
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  #24  
Old 05-17-2010, 03:26 PM
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but if it works, why question it anymore?
Deej, I don't fault you or your system, and have tested it. And yes I believe it works for my bike's issue. However, I would never accept this issue on any other vehicle or piece of farm equipment I own - and I won't accept it on my motorcycle either. John Deere would be out of business if farmers had to shut their fuel off a 1/4 mile away from where they plan to park.

be aware that you don't use a drill motor
TNC, Yeah, I have a little bit holder from a torch tip cleaning bit set I can use. That set is a 52-74, just a little bit too big. Thanks for the advice and clarifying which port to drill - hope it works.
 
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:07 PM
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Accept it or not, since I ride everyday it just works, and if there is that rare chance that the bike sits for a period of time then the other thing works too. I never read where drilling was a 100% across the board fix.
 
  #26  
Old 05-17-2010, 08:10 PM
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Deej, I don't recall ever reading about anyone drilling this particular jet out. I know others have drilled out their main jets, but as far as I know not this one. I ***-u-med the pilot jet took care of all the fuel at idle, choked or not.
I actually did not know that "The starter jet circuit only operates when you pull the choke **** open. Otherwise it's completely closed during normal operation." good to know.
TNC what size was it before you drilled it?
Dan
 
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:16 PM
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Why would you drill out a jet? Why not just buy the right jets? Sorry if I sound like a noob....trust me I am LOL
 
  #28  
Old 05-17-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by deej
Why would you drill out a jet? Why not just buy the right jets? Sorry if I sound like a noob....trust me I am LOL
That's kinda what I was asking earlier in the thread. At that point I thought TNC was talking about saving a few bucks, and drilling out the pilot jet instead of buying a bigger one. As I understand now the starter jet ( which only operates when you pull the choke **** open) is pressed in and not really replaceable. Somebody correct me on that if I'm wrong. If that is the case you should be real careful when drilling.
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  #29  
Old 05-18-2010, 12:32 AM
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dan, you're right on the replaceability. I've never seen a starter jet selection from Mikuni or Keihin. The size is listed right there in the Kawasaki factory shop manual, but I bet they're hard to find. The stock size was about .017". I say "about", because that was the smallest drill bit that I could fit into the OEM starter jet on my carb. My drill index goes up .001" at a time. I'd say it's close enough for guv'ment work for this application, as it's only in play during cold startup. This jet is sensitive, and a little increased diameter goes a long way...and apparently a tiny bit too small makes for some aggravating situations too. This is not a common issue, but it's happened occasionally with a manufacturer having too small a starter jet. It's an easy fix.
 
  #30  
Old 05-18-2010, 07:15 AM
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Drilled mine out today. The bit I macrometered at .017 was plenty tight, but went thru with a few twists of the bit. The bit I used measured .0195 and I took my time, probably 2-3 minutes as I didn't want to push to hard and have the bit grab hard on something and break off.

I would not want to go any bigger, and wouldn't be surprised if a .018 - .019 wouldn't do the trick as well. You were right, the choke can only remain on for about 15-20 seconds or the bike will shut down. But after you shut the choke, the bike settles down to a nice smooth idle for a cold engine.

I removed the choke and sprayed carb cleaner into the choke port on top, and that jet was the only place the cleaner sprayed out on bottom.

BTW, don't look into the port as you're spraying the cleaner. (jus kiddin)

So far, I'm glad I did it. But the ultimate test will be after the bike has sat for a week or 2. Which might be hard to do, this time of year.
 

Last edited by Kamp; 05-18-2010 at 07:20 AM.


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