Hard Start question

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:58 PM
  #11  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

Thanks to Tony, I have some great modifications that I'm going to make to help prevent a repeat of this problem if my kid takes his KLX swimming again.
I seem to have the water out of the engine, changed the filter and filled with oil, but even with a new plug, which had spark before installing, I still haven't been able to get the bike to fire up? I did find more water in the pipe and drained it. ShouldI drain the carb more? Itdid turn cold here -only in the upper 40s, so I was using the choke and it sounds like it wants to start but won't.
I do still have the top off of the aircleaner and the element off -and after cranking quite awhile I do get gas vapor smell and see a mist.
Anything else that I may have missed or will this just take a while?
Thanks everyone, Glen
 
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 08:54 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

At this point, I would drain the tank and carb completely and dump a little Seafoam in the fresh fuel.
 
Old Apr 30, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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Default RE: Hard Start question

Yes Tony is right, at the very least turn off the gas, drain the bowl using the allen head screw, and give it a try, probably fire right up.
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 12:22 PM
  #14  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

Hey guys, I drained the carb float bowel again and found no H2O. However, I had another weird thing happen. I wondered if water could have gotten into the flywheel cover, so I took off the screw out plug, layed the bike down on that side and as typical, some gas spills out the carb, but I also had some of the "milk" oil come out that plug???. Is there a way for crankcase oil to get into the flywheel cover -maybe a vent or vent tube back track?? Can anyone let me know what this could be about -I'll pull the cover tonight after work.
Thanks, Glen
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 12:38 PM
  #15  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

yes oil gets in there... i started my bike once with the access screws out and oil came out.... you just got alot of oil changes to do....
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 12:39 PM
  #16  
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why did your son dump the bike if it stalled? unless leaning into a turn i can see how...but if your going in a straight line all ya have to do is put your feet down......[&:]
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 02:24 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

Eric, Thanks.
Should I loosen up the cover and let the oil drain out -it still seems weird that the design would allow oil to get near the flywheel?
My son dropped it because heis a new rider and panicked -he is about 5'-6" or so and about 130 llbs "wet", so the bike is still "big" to him. I did back off the preload on the rear shock and it lowered it enough that he can get his feet down to the ground.
Hopefully, I can gethis bike fired up tonight.
Thanks again, Glen
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 02:39 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

ah.... i see..... if your thinking chevy V8, about the oil and flywheel... not even close... just like the wet clutch, these motors are completely different... i wouldnt think you would need to take the flywheel cover off... but i have herd it taking like 8-10 oil changes to clear up water in the oil. Good luck.
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 03:01 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

Eric,
I wasn't thinking of my Z28... I had 2 stroke MX bikes in the 70's, but never a 4 stroke- but I guess the weird part to me is that the flywheel has the "alternator" right? and I didn't think oil and electricity went together.
When I change the oil, it's Ok to run for a short time to warm the oil and then change as many times as required to get clear oil right?
Do I have to change the filter every time?
Thanks again, Glen
 
Old May 1, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: Hard Start question

cant answer all of those ?'s.... ive never sunk my bike....

mmmmmmmm ...Z28
 



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