Handguards for a KLX250S...
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 150
I have Moose Racing curved handguards on my DR650. They are quite good. The DR has been down hard quite a few times without any damage. About all I can complain about is having to scrape dirt/debris out of between the plastic shields and the metal guard 
I went with the Cycra's for the KLX for two reasons. First, they appear to be a little stronger than the Moose guards (could just be perception). Second, I like the look of the Cycra's over the Moose.
I went with the Cycra's for the KLX for two reasons. First, they appear to be a little stronger than the Moose guards (could just be perception). Second, I like the look of the Cycra's over the Moose.
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 195
From: Nova Scotia Toolies
So at the very end, is the end of the lever actually bent around - then the heat shrink over that? Is that what I'm seeing?
I think I have about decided to just take my levers to my machinist/welding buddy, and get him to cut the ***** off, cut an inch out, and weld the ***** back on. Maybe I should throw some heat shrink over that. I like shorty levers, and the guards I got but haven't put on yet don't quite have room for stock levers - fancy new levers aren't in my budget...
I think I have about decided to just take my levers to my machinist/welding buddy, and get him to cut the ***** off, cut an inch out, and weld the ***** back on. Maybe I should throw some heat shrink over that. I like shorty levers, and the guards I got but haven't put on yet don't quite have room for stock levers - fancy new levers aren't in my budget...
Senior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,389
From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia
So at the very end, is the end of the lever actually bent around - then the heat shrink over that? Is that what I'm seeing?
I think I have about decided to just take my levers to my machinist/welding buddy, and get him to cut the ***** off, cut an inch out, and weld the ***** back on. Maybe I should throw some heat shrink over that. I like shorty levers, and the guards I got but haven't put on yet don't quite have room for stock levers - fancy new levers aren't in my budget...
I think I have about decided to just take my levers to my machinist/welding buddy, and get him to cut the ***** off, cut an inch out, and weld the ***** back on. Maybe I should throw some heat shrink over that. I like shorty levers, and the guards I got but haven't put on yet don't quite have room for stock levers - fancy new levers aren't in my budget...
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 27
From: NJ
Pics for Kojack06
Got a PM from Kojack06 asking for some more detailed pics of the handguards and clamps. Here they are:
Hope the pics provide the detail you're looking for.
Also, the bash plate and engine guards are from TCI/Turbocity. Quality is good. Instructions not so good. Most importantly, you'll need to remove the engine guard everytime you wish to replace the oil filter.
Hope the pics provide the detail you're looking for.
Also, the bash plate and engine guards are from TCI/Turbocity. Quality is good. Instructions not so good. Most importantly, you'll need to remove the engine guard everytime you wish to replace the oil filter.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 119
From: Central Texas
1st Gear Member
Many thanks Sir!!
Kojack
Kojack
Got a PM from Kojack06 asking for some more detailed pics of the handguards and clamps. Here they are:
Hope the pics provide the detail you're looking for.
Also, the bash plate and engine guards are from TCI/Turbocity. Quality is good. Instructions not so good. Most importantly, you'll need to remove the engine guard everytime you wish to replace the oil filter.
Hope the pics provide the detail you're looking for.
Also, the bash plate and engine guards are from TCI/Turbocity. Quality is good. Instructions not so good. Most importantly, you'll need to remove the engine guard everytime you wish to replace the oil filter.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 419
From: North Shore of Lake Superior
1st Gear Member
Got a PM from Kojack06 asking for some more detailed pics of the handguards and clamps. Here they are:
Hope the pics provide the detail you're looking for.
Also, the bash plate and engine guards are from TCI/Turbocity. Quality is good. Instructions not so good. Most importantly, you'll need to remove the engine guard everytime you wish to replace the oil filter.
Hope the pics provide the detail you're looking for.
Also, the bash plate and engine guards are from TCI/Turbocity. Quality is good. Instructions not so good. Most importantly, you'll need to remove the engine guard everytime you wish to replace the oil filter.
Junior Member
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 27
From: NJ
Question: how bad is the interference with the front brake hose where it passes beneath the left bar mount. I haven't fully mounted my standard Moose guards yet, but it's clear that under fork compression the hose will at least rub on the mount, if not be forced to distort around it. No doubt this will cause some wear issues. I could flip the top hose guide to make the hose clear the guard mount, but then the front left blinker will be in the way. Just curious what you've seen, or work arounds others have tried.
Ed