Front Wheel and brake
#1
Front Wheel and brake
2019 KLX250S, bought this a couple months ago as and upgrade from my 2012 Yamaha XT250. So I have been working my way around the forum, gaining knowledge and doing a few mods.
I removeld the lid to the airbox, which made a noticeable improvement in performance, just added the 13 tooth CS sprocket, so far I like it. I can't believe how tight the sprocket nut was on,
used a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe on it. Jammed a wrench through the rear wheel rotor slot, but gave up because I was afraid I'd break something. Got the oxyacetylene torch out and heated the nut for removal. It is not going back on that tight. Back to the front wheel. I have been dealing with the front brake, warped or bent rotor, caliper with frozen, brake pad locating pin. On the 3 yr old bike???
Got that straightened out, without buying new caliper or rotor, but the braking doesn't seem to be as firm as I think it should be. I can't do "stoppies". I have tried repeated attempts to bleed the system, unconvinced I got it all, mainly because the hand control travel, and unlike some other bikes there is no adjustment at the hand control. So I have the caliper off, but in spinning the wheel, it only does a turn or 2, seems like some drag. I loosened up the front axle nut, torque I believe is 65 ft/lbs, and the wheel spins freely. Hmm beginning to believe that the spacer in the hub between the two wheel bearings might be a bit short, and when the axle nut is tightened it puts a side load on the wheel bearings. I'm going to try and reseat the bearings possibly not pressed in tight enough. I suppose I could go in and shim the spacer a bit as well. Maybe machine off a bit of material on the back side of the hub where bearing is seated? Anyway I am going to scuff up the existing brake pads which have plenty of material, and sand up the rotor a bit, to see if it might not be air in the hydraulics afterall. Appreicate any thoughts you might have>
I removeld the lid to the airbox, which made a noticeable improvement in performance, just added the 13 tooth CS sprocket, so far I like it. I can't believe how tight the sprocket nut was on,
used a 1/2" breaker bar with a pipe on it. Jammed a wrench through the rear wheel rotor slot, but gave up because I was afraid I'd break something. Got the oxyacetylene torch out and heated the nut for removal. It is not going back on that tight. Back to the front wheel. I have been dealing with the front brake, warped or bent rotor, caliper with frozen, brake pad locating pin. On the 3 yr old bike???
Got that straightened out, without buying new caliper or rotor, but the braking doesn't seem to be as firm as I think it should be. I can't do "stoppies". I have tried repeated attempts to bleed the system, unconvinced I got it all, mainly because the hand control travel, and unlike some other bikes there is no adjustment at the hand control. So I have the caliper off, but in spinning the wheel, it only does a turn or 2, seems like some drag. I loosened up the front axle nut, torque I believe is 65 ft/lbs, and the wheel spins freely. Hmm beginning to believe that the spacer in the hub between the two wheel bearings might be a bit short, and when the axle nut is tightened it puts a side load on the wheel bearings. I'm going to try and reseat the bearings possibly not pressed in tight enough. I suppose I could go in and shim the spacer a bit as well. Maybe machine off a bit of material on the back side of the hub where bearing is seated? Anyway I am going to scuff up the existing brake pads which have plenty of material, and sand up the rotor a bit, to see if it might not be air in the hydraulics afterall. Appreicate any thoughts you might have>
#2
My front brake leve/travel/feel suck. Everything is good and right but still the problem persists. I checked a new model at teh local dealer and the brakes feel normal, so I must have something up in the master/piston/seal going on.
It sounds like you have this in hand. Hydraulics. Mechanical. Not a lot of choices. Be sure the check the caliper pistons for cleanliness and smoothness of operation, and the rotor for any dishing.
It sounds like you have this in hand. Hydraulics. Mechanical. Not a lot of choices. Be sure the check the caliper pistons for cleanliness and smoothness of operation, and the rotor for any dishing.
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