Me either, but if I understand correctly, isn't that what happened with the OP? I've heard of loosening the triple clamp to get a tweak out.

 

While the KLX manual makes no mention of it, many forks with axle clamp setups similar to the KYB USD fork require you to loosely fit the axle clamp plate and then stroke the fork vigorously before doing the final torquing of the clamp nuts/bolts. This tends to center the wheel/hub in the fork legs so there's no axle or fork leg bind. I think this may be what Scott is referring to. While I'm not positive that this is required on our KYB fork, I do it on mine when reinstalling the wheel just for grins.

 

Huh huh , he said stroke it vigorously. lol Just kidding , that sounds like a great tip to file away for the next tire change.
Dan

 

Actually I didn't mention it, and hadn't really made the connection till I read your post, but I did tweak the forks in a crash last year. Everything worked fine but the handlebars were cocked to the right just a bit. About a month ago I got tire of the skewed bars and loosened the triple clamp bolts, locked the front wheel between my legs, and gave a mighty heave on the bars. I heard a small crack and everything then lined up. But I didn't loosen the axle clamp after that and I bet that's what bound up the fork. Nevertheless I think TNC's advice is good - to pump the forks a few times before you tighten down the clamp if you've had the wheel off.

 

Ya, I bet that brings the grins. (just had to...esp after dan's post)

Guido - thanks for the clarification. What I take from this is if they tweak, loosen the triple clamps and axle, and then of course, stoke vigorously.