I have a 2007 KLX250 and a DR650. I picked up the KLX because I missed my old XT225, it was cheap, and it was a half mile down the road from me. I've had it for 5 years or so, and find that lately I'm riding it more than the DR650. It feels 100 pounds lighter and is just more fun to ride. No question, the DR has a lot more power, but for most of what I do, the KLX feels better. I'm pretty convinced that I want a KLX as my primary bike, and want a better seat, heated grips, rear rack, skid plate, bigger tank, etc. My KLX has almost 14,000 miles. It runs and rides great, I'm just not sure I want to put a bunch of money into accessories.
I know the 2006-2007 bikes were a little lighter. I've heard some people say 30 pounds, but if the main difference is the wheels, I can't believe 30 pounds is realistic. I can't find much info on stator output between the older bikes and the new ones. Is there anything on the 06-07 bikes that is really that much better to make it worth putting the money into my 2007? I've seen some 2021-23 KLX300 in the $4500 range with ~500 miles. It's tempting to pick one up and get it set up just the way I want. I'll probably keep the 2007 either way. If I pick up a newer KLX I'll leave the 2007 stock and keep it around for friends to ride.

 

My 12 klx351 has 25k mile was worth every dollar I put into it being a carb bike. Efi would be nice but bit less to worry about if something does go wrong

 

The earlier 250 has longer travel suspension. As far as weight, I don't know about that. I do know that a large number of accessories are interchangeable between all the KLX250 and 300 models. If you aren't looking for more power the 250 is already there for you. One big thing that seems to be a constant is the fuel capacity. I am fairly certain that there was a large aftermarket fuel tank for the carbureted versions both pre and post 2009. Seems no company has made one for the EFI bikes where the fuel pump is in the tank.

As for carbureted bikes they aren't hard to live with. Personally I leave the gas on all the time, if the fuel inlet needle is working properly there is no problem, if not, you'd know pretty quickly as there would be gas all over the floor in no time. I leave the gas on to keep the float bowl full of gas. It will go bad, but it keeps the carb from gumming up or having bits seizing. You see, the one time I did drain the carb I had the float needle seize up in the carb body, had to pull the carb to fix it. Where leaving the gas on if the gas gets a bit low in the carb, more is let in, keeping things liquid. Then when I pulled the bike out I'd turn off the gas, drain the float bowl, turn on the gas and the bike would fire up as if it was parked yesterday. In addition the gas in my KLX650 would go bad in about 5 days, I think the 250 is more like around 15 days, so I drain the carb while getting ready to ride, then with fresh gas the bike fires up just fine. This has worked well for around 40 years on my bikes.

If you want more power then look at the KLX300s.

 

I don't mind carbureted bikes at all. I've always gone through them when I buy a bike, keep good gas in them, and they haven't caused me any trouble. I'm in Wisconsin, so I don't have to worry about elevation changes. I'm not too worried about suspension travel either, I'm not trying to ride fast on any technical single track. My reasoning for looking at a newer bike is just less miles that someone else may have been rough on it, and probably more accessories will be available than there are for a bike that was only made for two years(going on 20 years ago).
Does anyone with a higher mileage KLX have any advice about what to look out for? I don't know the history on mine before the 12,000 mile mark. It starts great, hot or cold, and runs well. There are no signs of abuse, it's bone stock, but the plastics are pretty faded so I know it wasn't babied too much. I cleaned the carb when I got it, changed the oil, new chain/sprockets, new air filter, and new tubes and tires.

 

If it starts great then the carb has been jetted, a good thing. Someone cared and that was one thing to look out for - lean running hard starting stock jetting.

Some of us have had minor issues with the side stand switch, usually removing it, which requires a jumper at the plug up on the right side under the seat, open circuit, engine won't start and run.

One other thing I would say to look for is if there is cam drive rattle. Usually when the tensioner starts to fail it will rattle in the 4000-6000 rpm range, eventually spreading. Easy solution is a manual cam chain tensioner, and I will tell you I make and sell them. Riders here have both been the cause for my making them and have recommended them as the fix. The OEM unit fails to hold adjustment, a manual one holds adjustment and only needs adjusted if light ticking is heard when the engine is fully up to operating temperature. My experience has been maybe around every 10,000 miles or so and even then the play is only around .010", where my old OEM in my KLX250 was moving around 3/16-1/4" inch in and out. Hear the rattle change the tensioner. It is entirely possible the bike may already have one.

 

Doesn't sound like 14000 on a KLX is too much, so I think I'll start to outfit this one. I put a seat concepts foam/cover kit on my DR650 and that worked great. I hope the KLX seat kit makes as much of a difference as that one did.
What can these subframes really handle if I'm not doing anything extreme? I have soft luggage on it now with a little homemade support to keep the bags off the exhaust/coolant tank. I like the idea of the cycleracks setup since it supports the subframe, but the design for the 06-07 isn't exactly pretty.
I believe I drilled out the pilot jet or enrichment circuit jet at some point. It starts great hot or cold. I read somewhere that they like 10 seconds of choke when cold, and that seems to work perfect.
KLX678- I found your ebay listing. Is that the best way to order one? It's stock on this bike and I'd feel better with the manual tensioner. I'll probably get into the MCM, snorkel change, and maybe open up the exhaust down the road, but for now I want to make sure it's reliable and a little more comfortable.

 

Same dilemma I have. 2007 w/1,100 miles. Been sitting the past 6 years in my garage. I just flushed the fuel tank, replaced all the fuel lines,fuel shut off o-rings,new battery,cleaned/adjusted the chain. I started it right up without issue on Sunoco Optima 95 octane unleaded & starts easy after sitting(unlike using pump gas) When I bought it new, I upgraded it (KLX300R jets,@Brothers Exhaust,Skid Plate,13T sprocket) but was never happy with power & suspension for offroad single track use.

Before I put more money into it (big bore,suspension, fuel tank) I debate buying a new BETA RS 390/430 to give me the power & suspension I am looking for but sacrifice long maintenance schedules.

My 2007 Kawasaki KLX250s dry weight: 262

2024 Beta RS 390 dry weight: 241

If I sell off the Kawasaki, I know I will miss it in my case I can only have 1.