Final drive gearing
#21
RE: Final drive gearing
ORIGINAL: MaverickAus
Hmm fair enuff someone else reported accelerated wear so I took that to be right
ORIGINAL: bmwhd
I've only got 1K miles on my 13/42 but no visable wear yet on the front teeth.
I've only got 1K miles on my 13/42 but no visable wear yet on the front teeth.
#24
RE: Final drive gearing
i'm almost sure it is because the same thing happened to me. the problem is the 13 t is a lot narrower than the stock 14t. the parts guy suggested using shims. not sure if he's just trying to avoid a return. obvious concerns are misalignment relative to chain and rear sprocket. and if it will dig into the rubber thatlooks like a seal of some sort.
#25
RE: Final drive gearing
yep.. You may want to considergoing back tothe 14 and then bumping up the rear sprocket to 48 or 49 (depending on what your ratio goal is).
The 13 tooth front sprocket also seems to rotate the chain faster around thedrive shaftand some think that leads to faster wear of the chain itself in addition to being a bit noiser.
Your parts guy is on it, if you stick with the 13t you should probably sim it.
Ithought that Kawasaki makes an exact 13t part for the KLX 250s that should not need a shim if you order it from your dealer. Is that what you have or is it after market???
The 13 tooth front sprocket also seems to rotate the chain faster around thedrive shaftand some think that leads to faster wear of the chain itself in addition to being a bit noiser.
Your parts guy is on it, if you stick with the 13t you should probably sim it.
Ithought that Kawasaki makes an exact 13t part for the KLX 250s that should not need a shim if you order it from your dealer. Is that what you have or is it after market???
#27
RE: Final drive gearing
really.... Thats wierd... I know that Kawasaki now has them under their brand specifically for the KLX 250 so no shimming is needed...
I would suggest challenging them on that...
I would suggest challenging them on that...
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Final drive gearing
some needed shimmed, but if you buy the right aftermarket one, it fits perfect. one for a Honda XR650L is the one needed. I have it and no noise is heard and all is well. some need shimmed though, but the one's that don't you can tell as they have one side of the sprocket that is machined so that it sticks out further than the other side, it's like a shim but it's built onto the sprocket. basically one side sticks out further than the other, this is the side that fits against the engine.
#30
RE: Final drive gearing
hey surf, ihad the dealer throw on a a renthal R3 o-ring chain 520R32-120L with a sunstar 45t rear 5-361945 b4 bringing the bike home new. i've been this route b4 with other bikes and have never regretted it.
john
john