Yes and yes is correct, but will it do it better when you perform the mods, yes

 

I'm with Marty...It's all about your relationship with your dealer. I've done the mods as you know and I also have the extended warranty. It's been my long experience with a variety of bike dealers that mods not directly related to the failure are never a problem. However, if there's a reasonable connection between the two, you may have issues. For example, if you open up your carb and re-jet, then later have the float start sticking, you might find a dealer or two that would say "well, you opened up the carb so it's your problem". However, in practice the performance mods are not going to be contributors to major warranty items.

I bought the extended warranty mainly to protect against a major component failure way down the road. Sinde this little bike runs SO much better with the mods, I'll take my chances.

 

You mention the float sticking, what happens when the float sticks? When I performed my mod I made sure not to touch the float and only adjusted and touched the Main jet. Would this affect the float at all? I told you about the problem I have been having when I warm up the bike and its really sluggish at 1/4 throttle, but after it warms up thouroughly its fine. I still need to move the needle position for a richer mixture, but hopefully something like this didn't happen and moving the needle will fix it.

 

So, basically I have come up with do all the mods I want, but I think I will do only the ones that I can swap out with the original stuff. Like jetting, exhaust system, snorkel, gearing. I think it will be more than satisfactory if I just do those, but will also have the ability to swap back to the original crap if the time comes for warranty work.

I hope in my own personal case that the new dealership I will be dealing with when I move back to Minnesota this fall will be a good one, as I never worked with them before when I lived there.

 

Bill, I'm just going nuts trying to figure out what could be causing your cold stumble. My bike fires up without the choke unless it's ice cold outside and the bike's been sitting for more than 24 hours and even then you have to shut the choke off immediately. Then just ride away with wrist-popping acceleration. Something's got to be out of whack with your carb but danged if I know what it is. I suppose it's possible the float could have been bumped out of alignment but I don't think a problem caused by that would go away on warm up.

 

Same here. Bill, what is your exact carb setup? With several folks running different main jets / needle combinations and even then with sometimes different needle slot settings, it's hard to keep track. I copied Todd's settings when I did mine and I also don't notice any problems - just the improvements.

The only time I've had any problem is just after washing the bike. I know it comes as great shock that I sometimes wash my bike, but it does happen occasionally. But for some reason, it takes an extra long time to warm up after that. However, that condition was present before doing the carb mods and not surprisingly still persists afterwards. Not sure what's up with that, but I figure it's just the bike's way of telling me, like my kids, it hates baths

 

Well my bike did this before too, it would be sluggish during the warm up. Now that I have a White brothers E-system full exhaust I need to put the clip on the needle in the 3rd slot down from the base!! Oh did i mention, THE PIPE IS EXTREMLY LOUD!!!! lol. So when I have a chance I'm gonna pull the needle out and change everything around and now I definatley shouldn't be running rich. The end of the pipe is so big that without the Spark arresstor in it, I could basically stick my hand down the back of the muffler lol.

 

You know the drill, incabiker - we must have photos!

 

I never buy the extended warrantys. I think if your bike is going to have a warranty problem, the odds are it will show up during the one year warranty. I had a 2001 KLR250 which basically blew up at 1487 miles and during the first year. A little piece of sealer used at engine assebly broke loose and plugged an oil supply line to the top end.Ruined a great weekend of riding dirt and fireroads above Lake Cushman, Wa. Had to trailer the knocking bike to the dealer. They tore it down in stages because they had to get Kawasakis okay at each step of the job. It took like 6 weeks and they had to replace the cylinder head, both cams, all the rockers (the KLR250 doesn't use shims), the camchain and tensioner etc. The job was well done though, and I put another 9000 miles on the bike before trading it in on a KLR650. My problem was with how long it took. What if that bike would have been my only transportation? Taxi fair for 6 weeks?
Anyway, the KLR250 was a hell of a dual sport bike.I commuted 65 miles round trip on the freeway at 60-65 mph and trail rode it and got great gas mileage too.I used a tank bag to carry rain gear.Mine was super easy to start with the kick starter.I wish the KLX250s had a bigger gas tank like my KLR250 had-that was a step backwards in the KLX design. Anyway, the KLR650 is a great bike, but a pig on the trails, so I'm considering grabbing a KLX250S.