Houston: They may or may not charge more for AFR(Air/Fuel Ratio) sensing during the Dyno testing - so you'll need to ask about that - AND they may not even have the ability to measure AFR. While it is not "all important", AFR charting is a really nice bit of information, so get it if you can.

Take a USB flash drive with you - A brand new flash drive still in its' packaging - so they don't fear virus/malware infestation from it - which could ruin their business..(Dyno's store a customers' runs and data for future use with the customer as well as being able to share the HP/TRQ/AFR data to the tuner community, possibly earning even more business and/or $$..

Ask them to:
Use SAE correction factor.
Create "Engine Speed" charts. This means they will hook up RPM sensing onto the spark plug wire. If they don't, they are not sensing RPM and you'll get a MPH chart - not good.
Dyno the bike in 4th gear.
You'd like data from about 4k to at least 9.5k rpm. (FYI: if they can't get to 9.5k rpm or more, in 4th gear, then you'll have to your dyno testing in 3rd gear.)
Rear tire pressure set at 30psi.
The chain must be WELL LUBED (But not slinging oil everywhere.)

When done with the pulls (usually 3 or more "pulls" to one dyno test - in order to get the most accurate data they "run-up" the bike on the dyno 3 or more times. ) they can arrange the charts for you and put them on your flash drive - all this is done directly from the Dyno's console. You have choices as to how the charts are arranged. You can have HP/TRQ combined on one chart and AFR separate, OR, have all three separate. I would ask for both separate charts AND a chart with HP/TRQ combined.

There is no need for them to print off your charts.

Also tell them you'd like the dyno file on your flash drive, as a backup, in case your data is lost from the dyno's computer.

 

DRM:
Your situation is actually really simple - grab your K152 main jet and install it (if your near sea level). If you are at elevations of 2k or more, you'll have to calculate the K152/DJ140 comparable. Use the instructions from my "DGR slipon" thread below or respond with your elevations..

While it's probably hard for some to grasp, nothing "good" happens with the CVK until the main jet is correct for proper WOT fueling above 7k RPM. After that, the clip position is used to fuel the midrange properly for: 1. The best throttle response at all RPM's. 2. The best power levels 3.5-7k rpm @ WOT.

Just know that the needle controls part throttle operations at ALL rpm's. And, when you snap and hold WOT, power levels from 3.5-7k rpm.. And this is fine tuned with the clip position.

I think your current 3N (third notch down from the top) will be perfect or very, very, close.

Now that being said, I only know what proper main jets to use if running lidless with a slipon or full performance exhaust system, for running with the lid sans snorkel or lid+KDX snorkel or lid+stock snorkel, we have to trust DJ. Which is fine just as long as you don't wonder why they include a DJ132 main jet, in the kits, with NO information about its' use ! They include a logical collection of jets up to the DJ128, with instructions of their use - then there's that oddball DJ132 in there! With no instructions about it's use !... I figure they realized, at a much later date, that if you add a slipon, or, lord forbid, a full exhaust system, the DJ128 isn't big enough. So they threw in the DJ132 without directions in order to avoid having to invent a "stage III" recipe and/or admit that the kits are not well designed for performance exhaust mods..

 

Since I'm rambling on - If anyone thinks that smaller main jets are needed as intake restrictions at the airbox increase, they are RIGHT! When you create an increased gradient between the pressure of the air being presented to the carb inlet, and the ambient air pressure(the air your breathing while you ride), you change the dynamics in the main fueling circuit. Ambient air resides above the fuel in the bowl, lower pressure "airbox" air is entering the emulsion tube via the main air jet as well as as the carb's main barrel. As is easy to image, the more you lower the pressure of the air in the airbox , the more the "higher pressure" air above the fuel will be pushing it through the main jet.. Sidebar: Keep those bowl vent tubes clean and clear of obstructions!

Yes I know that some will realize that there is a few more variables involved as engine tuning(performance parts) and engine speed vary - obviously the engine is constantly pulling a varying "draw" to the emulsion tube ( which includes the main jet and air from the MAJ) through the needle and needle jet interaction - BUT a main jet has an envelope of performance that will "cap" at a "top" flow rate - suck/blow on it all you want, at its' top flow rate, and it won't flow much more..

I guess the point is, given any airbox configuration, erroring with a "too large" main jet and correcting midrange fueling with a higher clip setting is a far better/mo-powah mistake than the usual "too small" main jets with midrange fueling corrected with lower clip settings. So, near sea level and with a slipon, I'd be running that DJ132 main jet with clip on 2N if I were going standard stage II ( lid w/o snorkel or lid with KDX snorkel)..

 

Understood.

I have an appointment tomorrow morning for the Dyno base test. $60 bucks a pop (that better cover the AFR sensing) for the base and another $60 post modifications. Don't know what to think about that cost other than $120 for some data is a lot. Hoping to perform the modifications Friday and be riding off road all weekend. Will schedule the post dyno test after the long weekend.

Many thanks again!


More to come.

 

Good! While $60 a pop, for $120 total, is not a bad price, it's not a great one either.. So you should certainly be assertive in expecting all that I have told you above, as well as AFR data.

You will be making "History" with these runs. We really don't have a creditable chart for a stock bike. And my charts are "lacking" because I have the MCM mod - not something that everyone wants to do or is capable of doing.. So your "after" chart will be just as important..

For you, your runs will let you know exactly "what to expect" if you decide to look at the MCM, or a full exhaust with MCM - You'll have my charts to compare with yours..

I guess the point is that between your charts and mine, everybody will have the data available to help them decide what mods to shoot for and what to expect.

I sent you a Private Message (PM)..

 

Really looking forward to his setup + results. If there were a dyno shop anywhere near me I would have done some tests.

I'd like to see where I stand with my setup, as it feels really good. Running lidless and full exhaust is not for me, due to the grawl and noise. I'd be willing to bet Im very close to optimum setup for drilled lid minus snorkel, DG-O Series w/ 1" (-6dB) baffle, uni-dual stage filter and screenless intake.

Running K138, (DJ?)-needle at 2N, #40 pilot at sea level. Its possible I may or may not be able to move needle to 3N, its the only thing Im unsure of. As far as the mains, K148 main was too much, perhaps splitting the difference to a K142 might work, but probably not a big diff in any case.

The bikes running strong enough across the range that I would like to dyno and check AFR to get a baseline before touching anything else.

 

Josh, I think we will learn (probably should already know) that restricting airbox air flow with anything does, in fact, radically change the main jet requirements from my DJ140/2N OR DJ144/1N lidless recipes. You are probably correct, or very close to correct, with that K138 and your drilled lid..The K138 is the equivalent to the DJ128, so if you will move the clip to 3N (assuming you have the DJ needle, I can't remember..), you will actually be using standard DynoJet stage 2 settings..

Only a Dyno with a good functioning AFR module will tell you for sure - as the KLX will run great with WOT AFR's that test as low as in the 10's:1 all the way up to 14's:1 as long as the clip/needle combo is a proper compliment to the main jet..

 

For those interested. Houston has done his initial "stock bike" dyno run.. There are some problems with the AFR chart though. It is showing AFR's all the way down below 12:1, which is not possible with a stock bike.. We are investigating as the carb has been removed, prior to his ownership, and some mods made..

 

Update: It appears Houstons' carb components are in fact "stock". So his strange AFR chart is due to dyno operator error or a faulty AFR module on that dyno.. However, after consulting with my Dyno owner/operator, I have determined that there is no reason to doubt Houstons' HP/TRQ chart. His freshly "broken in" 2013 KLX made 20.41 hp and 14.17 lb ft TRQ in dead stock trim. (SAE corrected @ Rear Wheel)..

He is now running, lidless, Delkevic slipon, stock header, DJ140 main jet, DN0352 Needle from the 2206 kit with the clip on 2N , slide spring from the 2152 kit, #40 Pilot Jet with Fuel Screw at 2 turns out. His bike is running perfectly, and he is getting his "DynoButt" tuned-up with test rides to determine what clip setting gives the most throttle response as well as power levels @WOT below 7K.
So far, he has determined the "after burner kick-in" effect of the TRQ ramp-up occurs near 7k @ WOT - and that would be the same as when using only the DJ 2152 kit..

Much more to come..

 

Tough to do actual testing with the fun of this completely new bike.

As KLXster stated, I'm running his latest recipe (see previous post). After a few WOT tests it appears that the power "kick in" starts a bit earlier than first thought, just about the 6,250 - 6,600 RPMs. It blasts from there all the way to 9,000 - 9,000 RPM's. Tough to tell because now you get there in a hurry. It's a different bike in all three lower, mid and top end ranges.

Huge leaps of improvements in the torque category as well, of course most notable at the lower end but front end lightens up nicely at the 6,500 range in all three gears at half throttle.

For me I truly need quality off road time as the real test which I'm unable for a week or so. I look forward to having it Dyno tested with this set up and I'm also thinking, being I purchased both the 2206 and 2152 kits, I will also have it Dyno tested with DJ recommended Stage 2 2152 set up for data comparisons.

Thank you KLXster and everyone else for your tremendous help in educating me with this. Please don't go anywhere because I've just begun.

https://goo.gl/photos/RA5Eouu5C733Sbmk8