You'd have to ride a stock KLX300R and then mine to understand the radical difference in power levels. Stock, it won't pull 1st gear "power only" wheelies. But the point of my post was to let him know that I have a good bit of experience tuning with the 2206 kit as well as the 2152 and I'm making well educated suggestions concerning a "new" carb setup recipe - combining the DN053(2206) needle with the 2152 slide spring.

 

I have read enough information about this carb process to have a decent foundation, although I won't see my parts for a few days yet. Any thoughts out the diaphragm expansion concern. Does hot water help in from expanding as many have stated? Any other tips of experience out there about the rejecting process?

 

Do the work in a very clean environment. Handle the carb carefully when the bowl is off - lots of parts to bend/break if you set it down wrong or drop it. Take note of the condition of the slide/diaphragm cap - it must be unbent/untweaked. There is no reason to assume your diaphragm will be problematic, just be absolutely sure it stays seated in its' groove as the cap is going on. Be sure the slide spring is indexed correctly into the caps' tangs as you lower the cap onto the diaphragm/carb casting. Even though I'm not sure it's possible, make sure the white nylon "hat", that goes over the needle and indexes the "diaphragm end" of the spring, does not obstruct the slides' lift hole. Use correctly sized screwdrivers for removing/replacing the components.

You only have to do this once. Keep that in mind and go slow with correct tools and "component safe" handling.. Screw this up and your nightmare begins.

 

Good advice.
I have a decent shop, nuematic capability, bike lift, vice mounted to my benc and some quality small screwdivers. It's clean, but will be cleaner before I begin.

Still trying to find a dyno tester for some before data, waiting on a return call now from the closest place.

So I was somewhat sceptical to read posts stating the diaphragms swells if not put in hot water? Any validity to this?

 

Some diaphragms are problematic and do require "help" to seat properly - mine does not (2012 KLX250s) and I really don't expect yours too either. I believe the age of the diaphragm has something to do with it - you and I have "young" diaphragms.. Mine just falls into place.. I have probably redone my carbs' setup 20-30 times and I've never had anything go wrong and cause issues.. This ain't rocket surgery... But something does seem to "happen" from time to time with members, that causes bogging/stuttering starting at 5-6k... Right now it looks like diaphragm seating errors and /or bent caps may cause this - but the jury is still out on this issue..

If you do Dyno, be sure to PM me and talk to me before going in - there is a lot you'll need to know beforehand in order to insure you get the best data..

You'll actually need properly sized large flatblade screwdrivers to deal with the soft brass jets without damaging them..
'

 

You'll actually need properly sized large flatblade screwdrivers to deal with the soft brass jets without damaging them..

Very important especially the pilot jet and it usually comes seated from the factory with enough torque to hold the space shuttle together.

 

If your diaphragm seems to be a little large and won't seat properly, as mine has been, like you mentioned soak it in HOT water for a minute or more then dry and install. It's quite strange how hot water shrinks and stiffens that thing.

 

Putting the slide in hot water while working on the carb was one of the tips in the hop up articles I had seen. That includes the Cheap Mods article in my signature - in bold.

 

Klxster - Still looking for a Dyno testing facility, I think I may have found one. I'm hoping time will allow me to pre mod test, what do I need to know about Dyno testing if I can pull off before doing the mods?

Thanks

 

a little off topic, but will start a new thread if needed...

Hey klxster,

I and I'm sure many others appreciate your findings and ramblings...

I'm interested in a setup for my 2007 w/ 300 header and 300 2bros exhaust, no lid, and twin air filter. I currently have the DJ2206 w/ DJ128main; 3rd down; drilled w/ stock spring. I have an assortment of keihin jets 148-158 and a DJ132.

Do you have a thread for the 2206 already that I can pop into?