So, I'm at it again. I got a 300 exhaust for the KLX and threw it on one day and rode to work...learning a few things. So far, I've learned that there's a copper o-ring to seal the front and there was a graphite gasket between header and muffler that was pretty clapped out. I also learned that a normal hose clamp is not enough to hold the pipe together. So, I ordered all new gaskets and the factory clamp and guess what...the thing is still leaking at the connection between header and muffler.

I've tightened that clamp pretty tight on there and have messed with it some and didn't have any luck. I do have one mounting point for the muffler that is either tweaked pretty badly or is different on the 300 than on the 250 and I really have to work to get that bolt in. Could this be part of my problem? Meaning that by putting that bolt in and tightening it down (against its will) is kind of misaligning the joint there. I've also searched for a day or two on fixes for this and seen high temp silicone mentioned multiple times, but have heard others say that it eventually burns off. I'm looking for a quality fix here that will last for quite a few miles without any problems.

Any and all help would be appreciated,
Mike

 

If you use the high temp silicon you have to give it 24-hours to set before firing it up.

 

And that's fine. I can give it time. It's been down for a week so far and another day isn't a big deal. I'd rather not have it for another day, than get a crappy fix and have to do it again.

Mike

 

Alright, I applied the high temp silicone and can't feel a leak anymore, but I'm still shooting flames. Could putting on this exhaust lean me out that much? Or is it more likely that I still have a leak that I can't feel? I did have a 124 main and the needle was in the most popular position (and I can't remember what that is for the life of me, which figures). I pulled the carb and threw in a 128 main. The carb is still out and I was wondering if moving the needle position could help my issue and that goes back to whether it's a leak that I can't feel or a fuel/air mixture problem. Thanks if you can help.

Mike

 

Alright, I think I solved my problem. I moved the e-clip down (this is considering the top is the grooves and the bottom is the needle itself) one notch and kept the same washers I had on top of it. As previously mentioned, I changed my main out to a 128 and backed my fuel screw out to 3 turns. The fuel screw will change as I still have to fine tune it. And I hear some rattling around when it's idling, so I'm thinking I may have to get the manual cam chain tensioner but I'll have to read up on the issue again. Now, my bike purrs back down to idle with a hiccup or two but no popping or flames. As a recap, e-clip on the second notch up, 128 main, and play with fuel screw. I am at 2,152 ft above sea level. Hope this ends up helping someone in the future.

Mike